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Rock Climbing Photo: The crux corner on P.2 of Chitlin Corner (5.10). T...
Id# 109472698, 1500 x 999px View full size
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By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 15, 2014
Did this in 1983 when I was young and strong and apparently fearless. Straight-sided stoppers and hexes (no cams). I recall climbing the corner without much trouble (!) and then fiddling under the roof (not a great stance) for fifteen minutes before finally going for it. I assumed that scooting out the roof was going to be the crux and my last piece was at least 5 feet below my feet. Just shrugged and thought "Why not!?" and did it. Would have landed in my belayer's lap. Fast-forward 31 years: not as strong or fearless (duh), but way more clever (plus I kinda remember the moves). Sewed up the crux corner with all sorts of modern techno wizardry, (weighting at least half the pieces, just to set them), got three bomber pieces on my way out the face under the roof, and then ran out the 5.7 juggy stuff to the belay. In 1983 it was 5.10R. In 2014 it's 5.10 A0 and totally G-rated.
By Ryan Murphy 18
From: maine (bar harbor)
Sep 23, 2016
"here you have your standard 16 piece cam nest"
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 27, 2016
I'm not sure what your comment means, Ryan, but I'll take it as a compliment. This was pretty much an aid climb, after all [wink].
Photo 2 of 6
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The crux corner on P.2 of Chitlin Corner (5.10). This pitch SEWS up (especially if you yank on things and stand in slings to place each higher piece). Yes, that's 8 pieces in less than 20 feet.

Submitted By: Peter Lewis on Sep 15, 2014
On this route:
Chitlin's Corner (5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a )
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