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Routes in Wipeyur Buttress
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Brown Bunny S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Can You Spare a Square? (18) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Chocolate Corner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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F.U.D.G.E. S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gut Bomb S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Heinous Anus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Holy Crap S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Junk in the Trunk S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Morning Thunder S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mr. Hanky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Paper S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Peanut the Wonder Horse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Plastic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Racing Stripes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Silent But Deadly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slanty Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Snapping Station S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tailwinds S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Throne Room, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tramp Stamp S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Turd Burglar S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Tusk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Upperdeck-n-spackle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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When Can I Hit That S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Tzilla and Co. |
| Page Views: | 2,774 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | slim on Sep 10, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
Holy Crap is probably the centerpiece route at Wipeyur Buttress. The climbing is steep, athletic, technical, and sustained.
Begin by figuring out a good plan for the belayer. The belay area is steep with multiple small ledges, and there are tradeoffs in terms of seeing the climber, reducing rope drag, and avoiding rockfall.
The route starts at the bottom of the corner and shoots straight right on steep rock with good holds for 3 or 4 bolts (this section can be a little wet during rainy weather). Jet straight up through the true crux, and try to regain some juice for the relentless series of potential heartbreaker, redpoint cruxes above. This section isn't really that hard, but it is very sustained and pumpy. The rock on the upper section is very smooth and technical.
The climbing is fantastic, but be careful for some loose holds. Wwe pulled a few off, and there are some others that are iffy also.
Begin by figuring out a good plan for the belayer. The belay area is steep with multiple small ledges, and there are tradeoffs in terms of seeing the climber, reducing rope drag, and avoiding rockfall.
The route starts at the bottom of the corner and shoots straight right on steep rock with good holds for 3 or 4 bolts (this section can be a little wet during rainy weather). Jet straight up through the true crux, and try to regain some juice for the relentless series of potential heartbreaker, redpoint cruxes above. This section isn't really that hard, but it is very sustained and pumpy. The rock on the upper section is very smooth and technical.
The climbing is fantastic, but be careful for some loose holds. Wwe pulled a few off, and there are some others that are iffy also.
Location
On the right side of Wipeyur Buttress, there is a large, overhanging wall that makes up the right face of a huge cave/dihedral. Holy Crap starts in the lower left corner of this right face and heads pretty much straight to the right for 3 or 4 bolts and then directly upwards on steep rock for a long ways. There is a 2 bolt anchor on a ledge, as well as a fixed chain with a biner about halfway up to help make cleaning the route possible.
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