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Routes in West Face
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40 Knobs to Freedom T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bearded Clam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Black Bart T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Blown Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bombs Over Tokyo (Full) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Chvchichaschtli S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cooke Book T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cowabunga T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crescent Arch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crotch Rocket Joy Ride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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El Condor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Grey Ghost T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Plagiarism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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R.C.A. T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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R.C.A. (1st pitch) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sunny Side Down T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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West Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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West of the Witch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wienie Roast T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Witch of the West S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Grant Hiskes, Errett Allen 1987 |
| Page Views: | 1,105 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | john durr on Aug 15, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Surrounded by classics, this route sees few ascents. Of similiar quality, but more serious and sustained than Fingertips around the corner, some may feel it lacks an aesthetic line of ascent but it would be a classic at lesser climbing áreas.
P1: Climb easy slab up and over a long roof left of the start of El Condor, following a prominent wáter streak to the El Condor pitch 1 belay ledge. (5.7 ~100 feet)
P2: Make an easy traverse left to a low bolt below another long roof. Slab up and right to the roof 5.8 with finger size crack in it. Undercling left to the ápex and start face climbing up big knobs up and left to the second bolt, about 25' above the roof in a gold patch (5.8 R/X). Continue up with sustained moderately run-out 5.9+ climbing drifting slighly left then back right on edges and small knobs past 4 more hard to see bolts, the last bolt is just before the belay at the horizontal where polished rock forces a traverse up and right. Gear belay 1/2"-2" cams. (5.10a ~130 feet)
P3: Make a 5.8 move to face climb a short ways up a light colored patch of rock that forms the right side of a shallow depression. Make an improbable traverse right to easier slab climbing and then head for a low angle dihedral with large stacked blocks. No protection on this pitch. (5.8R ~60 feet).
4th class to the top about 100 feet.
Tick it off your list.
P1: Climb easy slab up and over a long roof left of the start of El Condor, following a prominent wáter streak to the El Condor pitch 1 belay ledge. (5.7 ~100 feet)
P2: Make an easy traverse left to a low bolt below another long roof. Slab up and right to the roof 5.8 with finger size crack in it. Undercling left to the ápex and start face climbing up big knobs up and left to the second bolt, about 25' above the roof in a gold patch (5.8 R/X). Continue up with sustained moderately run-out 5.9+ climbing drifting slighly left then back right on edges and small knobs past 4 more hard to see bolts, the last bolt is just before the belay at the horizontal where polished rock forces a traverse up and right. Gear belay 1/2"-2" cams. (5.10a ~130 feet)
P3: Make a 5.8 move to face climb a short ways up a light colored patch of rock that forms the right side of a shallow depression. Make an improbable traverse right to easier slab climbing and then head for a low angle dihedral with large stacked blocks. No protection on this pitch. (5.8R ~60 feet).
4th class to the top about 100 feet.
Tick it off your list.
Protection
This route has a dangerous 5.8 run-out to the second bolt and a little run-out 5.9 just before the third bolt. Pitch 3 has no pro and tricky route finding before reaching easy climbing. The seven protection bolts are good, but not modern and they are really hard to see from below. Bring four or five cams in finger to 2" size for the P2 roof and belays plus draws and slings.
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