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Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Hayes, 1973, getting set to edge up and left...
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By dnaiscool
Aug 11, 2014
Mike Jaffe had already drilled the first two bolts here when he asked me to join him to push this route higher. I took three falls tied into the rope at the waist with a bowline on a coil and without the "aid" of chalk, which was still a bit controversial at the time. I managed to get to a small block with the left hand, and it fell away, leaving a small ledge, 8" x 1". I mantled this new feature and stood hand-drilling for 45 minutes in the ever increasing heat. My bruised kidneys and fear kept me from peeling off the stance, and the 1/4" Leeper button head I left was a spinner...I did not have a blow tube, and this was my first bolt to be drilled on lead. I was 17 at the time and wearing knickers and a borrowed pair of tight-fitting kroenhoffers, which were keen to edge, but could not hold a candle to the shoes that were to emerge ten years later. I do not think the route ever went higher than that until '82 or '83. I never returned, and I was elated to read that Largo had finally completed our line. We originally called it "Epiphany"...quite sure nobody ever knew that. Ironic that our name implied something "divine" while Largo's name implies something "evil"...HA!! I thought it was pretty evil, and it was the hardest thing I'd ever done at the time, and I'd been climbing for 10 years by then, including several of the area 5.10's...I still think those moves up and left low on the route tick in at 5.11a.
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Peter Hayes, 1973, getting set to edge up and left to a stance to drill the third bolt on lead. Mike Jaffe Photo.

Submitted By: dnaiscool on Aug 11, 2014
On this route:
Hades (5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c )
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