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Toprope Solo on Single Strand: Escaping mid-route

Original Post
jaredj · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 165

I'm relatively new to toprope soloing, having only done a dozen sessions (about 100 pitches) at my local crags. At one crag, it is expedient for me to set up a single strand of rope rather than two. Escaping mid - pitch (by which I mean unweight in the ascenders and getting on rappel back to the ground) is very straightforward to me if using two strands of rope (irrespective of the ascender / backup knot setup).

If instead I do a setup on a single strand (where I have two ascenders rigged on the rope), the scenario for escape mid - pitch is less clear to me. In the event that I need to escape (eg I can't climb a section and can't batman the rope enough to get past the hard part). It's obvious how to mechanically ascend to the anchors, come off the ascenders, and go on rappel (or walk off). But I'm not sure how / if I can get off of weighted ascenders and rap the strand mid - pitch.

Lay the wisdom on me please.

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608

A special feature of the Soloist device is that if you rig its attachment to you carefully, you can release its tension on the rope by leaning way way back (after tying a backup knot in the rope below you.

This feature is also nice for working a tricky move or short sequence repeatedly, by quickly lowering down like only five feet to re-try.

Tricky point is that in a overhanging situation sometimes it can be difficult to lean back far enough, if one of your feet cannot reach the rock to help push.

But surely it still makes sense to carry (and know how to use) a reliable rope-ascension system -- so that if all else fails, you can go up to the top anchor.

Ken

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837

Lots of ways...how about a foot loop attached to the upper device?

I'll let you consider some others, now that I've said that.

gcooksey · · Marietta, Ga · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

Standing up in a loop of accessory cord tied to your rope with a prusik knot is an easy way to unweight your ascenders and get enough wiggle room between your ascenders to get a rappel device onto the rope. Basically you will want to put all your weight on your highest ascender and attach your rappel device on below it. Once attached, your going to want to put your weight on the rappel device by lowering your top ascender, check everything is tight, then remove your ascenders and rappel down. Called a changeover in singe rope technique if you want to go by the book.

jaredj · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 165

Thanks gcooksey. I envisioned something like this but wasn't sure if there was a more elegant way I was missing.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

If you have TWO ascenders on the rope, there's no reason you shouldn't be able to ascend (not Batman, which implies pulling yourself up on the rope itself, hard to do when your flamed out from repeated failures) up to easier rock and/or the anchor. That's simplicity itself.

But still there's no excuse for not being very familiar and practiced with a transition to rappel from a hanging position. Just remember to clip into an "Oh Sh:t knot" below you before you start the transition.

Robbie Mackley · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2010 · Points: 85

Never done it, but I would assume you could;
1. Rig atc (and chosen backup) below jugs.
2. Clean lower jug.
3. Take in any slack needed to get the weight off top jug.
4. Clean top jug.
5. Rap off.
As stated above, I've never done it. But this is probably where I would start.
-Mackley

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 674

I attach my ATC below the ascender with a short sling to extend it. That allows some slack for me to stand up in a foot loop made from the rope below the ATC and unload/disconnect the ascender.

Ease myself down to weight the ATC and rap to the ground. Simple.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
1. tie a catastrophe knot below you and clip it to yr belay loop

2. take a long sling and kleimheist it around the rope (the kleimheist/hedden is much easier to undo later)

3. tie an overhand/fig8/fig9 close to the kleimheist in the sling

4. clip a draw to your belay loop, step up in the sling and then clip it to the knot in the sling, the weight should be off the ascenders

5. take off your ascenders and put on your belay device

6. step up on the sling (you may need to shorten the foot loop with another knot) again and pull in the slack from your belay device (easier with a grigri)

7. tie off the device (or use a prussik below, or a grigri) and take apart the sling, take apart the catastrophe knot

note if you find it difficult to step up and take up the slack in your belay device you can also pre-make a releasable draw using a mariners or MMO ... this makes it pretty easy

also note that some toothed ascenders can be a bit of a biatch to take off, i prefer ones non-toothed ones like the microcender/ ushba for that reason

;)
teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

I always have my two Traxions, some extra slings, a Tibloc and a gri gri.

With those I should be able escape mid route in several ways, or I don't deserve to be called an old climber... :-)

Keep in mind that your rope is fixed, so escaping up is necessary unless you are willing/able to hike back up to the top.

jaredj · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 165

Thanks all. I had come to a something similar to what is being described in experimentation, but it felt kinda like a cluster; it is helpful to hear more experiened voices more or less confirm. I was hoping there was something simpler that I was missing.

So far, I've been using two toothed ascenders (mini traxion and a Petzl basic ascender), and the only belay device I currently own is a plate - style (ATC). To paraphrase bearbreeder, going through these steps with this set of tools felt like kind of a biatch. If I end up wanting to do a lot of work on a single strand (expedient for anchoring to a tree, rapping to the anchors at the edge or just over the edge of the cliff, then tying off the anchor there with the tree serving as a backup), I may experiment with other devices that would make such an escape simpler.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
jaredj wrote: So far, I've been using two toothed ascenders (mini traxion and a Petzl basic ascender), and the only belay device I currently own is a plate - style (ATC). To paraphrase bearbreeder, going through these steps with this set of tools felt like kind of a biatch. If I end up wanting to do a lot of work on a single strand (expedient for anchoring to a tree, rapping to the anchors at the edge or just over the edge of the cliff, then tying off the anchor there with the tree serving as a backup), I may experiment with other devices that would make such an escape simpler.
the problem with toothed ascenders is that they usually require a bit of space/slack for you to take em off, otherwise the teeth may tear into the sheath a bit

the microcender/ushba and other non-toothed ascenders you dont and its much easier to release even under slight tension

when you step up in the sling with a toothed ascender you may need to keep it from riding up with you

the classic example is when dean potters ascender jams against the knot and he cant take it off on his last nose speed run

with a non toothed ascender this is a non issue

;)
teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

Indeed, I've learned the hard way not to let my Traxions run into the knot... But mid rope, that's not so big a deal, I can usually unweight them just fine, even if it is bit of a pain to rig.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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