Eldo bolt replacement: Rosy Crucifixion, Predator, Wild Kingdom
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I'm planning on upgrading some hardware this weekend on Rosy, Predator, and Wild Kingdom.
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If you are going to do this again another weekend I'll help. |
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PM sent, that sounds awfully intriguing. |
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Greg over the years has become very knowledgeable and adept at bolt replacement. Examples of his work are here on MP - he does a great job. Greg is also a darn good teacher, has an awesome disposition, and is one of the friendliest guys around. If you are interested in learning this skill and or helping out in Eldo, this is a great opportunity. |
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Matt and I replaced all three routes with a little help from the Blueprint Part Dank (Thanks!) |
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I think the "help" I gave was more along the lines of only occasionally swinging into Matt and Greg. But those dudes are high speed low drag up there, and they're keeping all of us safe, without any real thanks and fanfare. Mad respect for those guys, and everyone who gets their hands dirty to make our days out climbing safer and less of a headache. |
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I feel very fortunate that I got to climb Rosy Crucifixion before it had any bolts. |
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Ed Wright wrote:I feel very fortunate that I got to climb Rosy Crucifixion before it had any bolts.You can always not use the bolts. |
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Eliot Augusto wrote: You can always not use the bolts.This response never, ever gets old. That's not the way it works, because that's not the way a typical human beings' mind works on a scary route. Anyway, that's cool you got to lead it without bolts Ed, I was glad to have them when I did it, but I would also welcome to challenge without. What was there before? |
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There used to be a couple of pins as I recollect. I believe when they were replaced the first clip became much easier. |
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Just looked it up in the guidebook. Rosy was first done as an aid route by Kor and co in the 60s, the whole thing was eventually freed by Ed Wright (Hi Ed!) in 1970. Apparently the pins were getting pretty bad (were they ever good?) by the 80s and were replaced with bolts. |
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Getting us back on track here...Greg, Matt and Dank, thanks for putting in your personal time to upgrade existing hardware. I very much appreciate the service you are providing to the climbing community. |
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Gregger Man wrote:http://youtu.be/U6vNjeu9ytMNice video. Thanks for all your work. I might feel a lot less scared whenever I try Rosy. |
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Thanks for your hard work, Greg. |
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Great job as always Greg & Matt! |