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Eldo bolt replacement: Rosy Crucifixion, Predator, Wild Kingdom

Original Post
Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,759

I'm planning on upgrading some hardware this weekend on Rosy, Predator, and Wild Kingdom.
Let me know if you are interested in helping out by

  • carrying tools
  • videoing for an upcoming 'how to' seminar
  • learning the techniques used to extract bolts rather than chop and patch
Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60

If you are going to do this again another weekend I'll help.

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

PM sent, that sounds awfully intriguing.

Wally · · Denver · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

Greg over the years has become very knowledgeable and adept at bolt replacement. Examples of his work are here on MP - he does a great job. Greg is also a darn good teacher, has an awesome disposition, and is one of the friendliest guys around. If you are interested in learning this skill and or helping out in Eldo, this is a great opportunity.

If I weren't so hell bent on climbing I would be there helping you out, buddy.

Thanks Greg for your continued support and time given to Eldo and the front range climbing community.

Wally

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,759

Matt and I replaced all three routes with a little help from the Blueprint Part Dank (Thanks!)
16 out of 18 bolts came out clean and easy. Two broke and required fresh holes.

Hardware removed from Rosy Crucifixion, Predator, and Wild Kingdom
We replaced the nylon webbing on the anchor at the end of the P1 Rosy traverse while we were at it.

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

I think the "help" I gave was more along the lines of only occasionally swinging into Matt and Greg. But those dudes are high speed low drag up there, and they're keeping all of us safe, without any real thanks and fanfare. Mad respect for those guys, and everyone who gets their hands dirty to make our days out climbing safer and less of a headache.

Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285

I feel very fortunate that I got to climb Rosy Crucifixion before it had any bolts.

Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60
Ed Wright wrote:I feel very fortunate that I got to climb Rosy Crucifixion before it had any bolts.
You can always not use the bolts.
Alexander Blum · · Livermore, CA · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 143
Eliot Augusto wrote: You can always not use the bolts.
This response never, ever gets old. That's not the way it works, because that's not the way a typical human beings' mind works on a scary route. Anyway, that's cool you got to lead it without bolts Ed, I was glad to have them when I did it, but I would also welcome to challenge without. What was there before?
Tombo · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 410

There used to be a couple of pins as I recollect. I believe when they were replaced the first clip became much easier.

Alexander Blum · · Livermore, CA · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 143

Just looked it up in the guidebook. Rosy was first done as an aid route by Kor and co in the 60s, the whole thing was eventually freed by Ed Wright (Hi Ed!) in 1970. Apparently the pins were getting pretty bad (were they ever good?) by the 80s and were replaced with bolts.

303scott · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 195

Getting us back on track here...Greg, Matt and Dank, thanks for putting in your personal time to upgrade existing hardware. I very much appreciate the service you are providing to the climbing community.

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,759
Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60
Gregger Man wrote:http://youtu.be/U6vNjeu9ytM
Nice video. Thanks for all your work. I might feel a lot less scared whenever I try Rosy.
Abram Herman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20

Thanks for your hard work, Greg.

Steve Levin · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 952

Great job as always Greg & Matt!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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