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Routes in Panther Gorge
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All Battered Boyfriends T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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All Ryled Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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All Things Holy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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And Then the Judgment T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Anorthofright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Anorthosite Overcast T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Belshazzar's Fate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bushy Pussy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Castle Column T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cat on a Wet Tin Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Climb After Slime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Cracks of My Tears T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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CrazyDog's Halo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Eye for an Eye T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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For Whom the Lichen Tolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Galaxy of Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Had the Radish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Haycrack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Kitten's Got Claws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Less Than Zero PG T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Luceo Non Uro T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Marcy’s Great Chimney (aka Empty Tomb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Margin Slide T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13 |
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Moonraker Runout T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Nothing but the Rain T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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One for the Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Panther's Fang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Panther's Pinnacle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Paws Off T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Pioneer Anomaly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Practically Roadside T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Predatory Instincts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Pride, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Promised Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Psalm 23 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Ranger on the Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Revelations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Rumours of War T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Slab the Impaler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Slacker Cracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Tail of Redemption T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Throne to the Lions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Tomcat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trigger Warning T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Watery Grave TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Windjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Wrecking My Zen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 |
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You Moss be Kidding Me! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Anthony Seidita, 2014 |
| Page Views: | 1,278 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Jul 16, 2014 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Set in Panther Gorge, NY, this technical slide lies over 9 miles from the nearest trailhead. While climbing this as a stand-alone route entails a great deal of hiking, the combination of this route with a climb of the slide just to the south (they join at the top) makes a nice day of climbing. Portions of the southern slide fall in the low technical climbing range with nice lines of face climbing. Alternately, combine it with a climb of Mt. Marcy's East Face just across the gorge.
Face climb 15 feet up to a hand-crack via excellent stone. The crack offers bomber holds throughout. Continue to follow the crack that leads up the face over a bulge to a 1 dominant overlap at 80 feet. This makes a good belay point if you want to turn this into a 2 pitch route. Follow the crack up another 30 feet to a slightly overhanging wall. Traverse right below the wall, step down over a 6' corner, continue on easy slab to end the traverse in the woods after 40 feet.
Either bushwhack up through the woods to the top of the slide or back down to the beginning of the route.
On Adirondack Rock
Face climb 15 feet up to a hand-crack via excellent stone. The crack offers bomber holds throughout. Continue to follow the crack that leads up the face over a bulge to a 1 dominant overlap at 80 feet. This makes a good belay point if you want to turn this into a 2 pitch route. Follow the crack up another 30 feet to a slightly overhanging wall. Traverse right below the wall, step down over a 6' corner, continue on easy slab to end the traverse in the woods after 40 feet.
Either bushwhack up through the woods to the top of the slide or back down to the beginning of the route.
On Adirondack Rock
Location
Follow the approach described in the Panther Gorge area or park at Adirondack Loj and hike to 4-corners between Mt. Skylight and Mt. Marcy. Descend 1.2 miles into Panther Gorge where a lean-to and several campsites near Marcy Brook place you close to the base of the slide.
Follow Marcy Brook up to 3,375 elevation where a drainage stream enters from the right; this is near the beaver ponds (on the left). Follow through the woods just south of the stream and to the slides after about 10 minutes' bushwhack up 200 feet of elevation gain. There are two closely adjacent slides, the northern (left) track hosts the Haycrack route. Climb several ledges to a right rising dike that leads to the base of the slab.
Follow Marcy Brook up to 3,375 elevation where a drainage stream enters from the right; this is near the beaver ponds (on the left). Follow through the woods just south of the stream and to the slides after about 10 minutes' bushwhack up 200 feet of elevation gain. There are two closely adjacent slides, the northern (left) track hosts the Haycrack route. Climb several ledges to a right rising dike that leads to the base of the slab.
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