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Rock Climbing Photo: The Modern Times Direct and variations
 One great ...
Id# 109145926, 195 x 548px
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By Michael Schneider
Jun 24, 2014
From the ground, there is an Independent climb. (5.6 pg/r) It starts in an open book steps right at 20ft onto the blunt arête and then shadows the original line iwich s to the left by about 20 feet.
It is best to climb onto the GT ledge at the regular routes spot.( cleaned of debris )
so the thought was it was too similar to be it’s own line.

The second pitch is the stuff,
Climb carefully up the stacked flake,
avoiding the mud and rubble on the GT ledge.
move up left then back & up left of center,

Or move more right easier, in corner on the edge of the flake
(can be wet)to top of the 'Stack or flake"
continue…, up the regular Modern Times crux, Above the lip stay left . .. ..
The direct finish is :…

Stay left after the crux go up slab /face to the bush under the white cap stone .

(the bush is almost in the way nowadays, sling it as gear.)

The horizontal also takes big cam : Many sizes will work (?#2-3 try-cam)

( #3. 5?)placement, is the biggest piece needed on the whole route!!).

Find the Amazing Hold just above the lip,
to the RIGHT of the bush (v2 breaks out left)
above A.H. are two sharp holes
(Use 1? for gear)
if you need,
the short person
may need to get a hold here to reach to the horizontal,

get gear? & get the gear! at the horizontal,(t,#.75 BD CmLt -or 1.5 Frnd size)

move up smooth clean -ed, white rock . . .
the streak between the lichen.

5.10b ?
(harder if you are short)
tall person has to have high step ability,

well protected with springy things & Tri-cams.

(v1) the left exit is short and stout; use crimps /side pulls to gain the ledge above,
Don’t touch the block that is sitting on the ledge (mantel) this is a high altitude
Top of the cliff V4? Boulder problem. The Bombay chimney, to the right of all the business just described, escapes at about 5.7r and can house birds and poop.
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The Modern Times Direct and variations
One great long pitch from GT ledge

Trophy Hunter goes out left, variation 1 (5.11)

Submitted By: Michael Schneider on Jun 24, 2014
On this route:
Modern Times (5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c )
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