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Rock Climbing Photo: Hi Nezbit. Is this what you refer to as "movi...
Id# 109106906, 748 x 417px View full size
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By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Jun 15, 2014
I think this (moving left into that crack) is how most people climb it. Love to hear what Groth says.
By Nezbit
Jun 15, 2014
That is exactly what I mean, Kris! I called that the left exit based on the photos of Groth and SLC Pete on the upper section of the climb. (Take all this with a grain of salt) In the photo you've submitted here it is clear that you -- as well as myself -- traversed left from the edge that the big move goes up to, whereas Groth moves up before moving left somewhat (see Groth's left and right hand holds: and Pete barrels straight up the face: (

At any rate, that was my logic. But I am new to the area and have only a passing familiarity with DL's history--just did my best with what was available at the time of the posting. Chris, if you happen to hear from Groth about the original exit, I'd love to know what he has to say.

Along those lines and since we're talking, I find it incredibly hard to believe that I am the first person to link the lower section of this route with the upper section. After the lead, I contacted Burt L., one of the site administrators. Burt told me he had not heard of anyone doing the line on TR or gear. He also suggested that I post it. So, here it is. But, to be clear, I posted the climb assuming that folks in the know would rectify my error and I am all for giving credit where credit is due. Thoughts?
By Kris Gorny
Jun 15, 2014
I just saw your and Remo's posts under the original The good, the bad, and the jacked (dang, how about "GBJ" for short?). I was not aware there were two distinct exits. The way I understood the route was with the thin left crack exit and I always felt the 5.12a rating for GBJ was a classic sandbag. Dave Groth's original grade was 12c, if I am not mistaken.

Kudos for adding the direct start and linking both! Tough lead indeed!
By Nezbit
Jun 15, 2014
I did not know there were two exits either! Like you, I went to the thin crack instinctively when first on the climb. It was not until reading Remo's post that I became aware of the other exit and began looking closely at the photos (the one of you just above the crux that shows your placements in the crux is a great one and was a big help!). Still, I claim no authority in the matter. I think Chris's idea of checking in with Groth about the original finish is a good one.

Thanks! And good job to you too! Sounds like you led a 12b R rather than a 12a R!
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Jun 17, 2014
Checked with Dave G. Original line went left into the crack as this photo of Kris shows. The lower section you added is likely new. Nice job.
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Hi Nezbit. Is this what you refer to as "moving left to a small crack before continuing to the top (12c R)"? I always thought this was part of the original route.

Submitted By: Kris Gorny on Jun 15, 2014
On this route:
The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct) (5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R )
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