Best Boulder Problems in the Northeast

Cool. I think I'm going to scrap the V0 list since now it only has 2 problems on it. Starting at V1 seems fine...

Very glad to see Firestarter getting a shout out here. Probably my favorite V3 ever.

Also, +1 on V1 for Zig Zag

A list of some of my favorite Adirondack boulder problems:

V4's

Pop or Drop- Nine Corners Lake, Caroga Lake NY
Spores- Nine Corners Lake
The Refrigerator- Second Pond (Saranac Lake, NY)
Solitary Confinement- Prison Boulder, Caroga Lake NY

Pop Or Drop

Spores

The Refrigerator

Solitary Confinement

V5's

Pleasure Treasure- Hope Falls NY, AKA Marble Zone
Lost My Marbles- Hope Falls NY, AKA Marble Zone

Pleasure Treasure

Lost My Marbles

V6's

Coitus- Snowy Mountain- Indian Lake, NY
Live Free or Die- Green Lake Boulders- Caroga Lake NY

Coitus

Coitus

Live Free or Die

V7's

Never Been to Hueco- Snowy Mountain, Indian Lake NY
Thorazine- Nine Corners Lake, Caroga Lake NY

Never Been to Hueco

Never Been to Hueco

Thorazine

V8's

Flux Capacitor- McKenzie Pond, Saranac Lake NY
Instant Yoga- Nine Corners Lake, Caroga Lake NY

Flux Capacitor

Instant Yoga

V9's

Whip Tide- Nine Corners Lake, Caroga Lake NY
Cartwheel- McKenzie Pond
Tommy the Cat (AKA Stanfields)- McKenzie Pond

V10's
OG- 18 - Hope Falls NY AKA Marble Zone

OG-18

Some of my favorites away from the Adirondacks:

Rubix Cube (V4)- Great Barrington

Snooze Button (V5)- Great Barrington
Sleeping Giant (V5)- Hideaway

New Pair of Glasses (V7)- New Paltz
Didactic Tactics (V7)- Triple Right, New Paltz

Funny Killer (V8)- Lost City, New Paltz

Rabid Wolverine (V9)- Lost City, New Paltz

That Daks bouldering looks great. Thanks for the beautiful photos. I used to be down on the daks somewhat after a few so so trips there, but there is obviously a lot more and better quality rock than I experienced.

It would be nice to see more of these really good lines and not the same old ones that are good but over hyped because lots of people are familiar with them. It is kind of like those lists of most beautiful women. The Wave? Hats Off? Kim Kardasian? Come on. Good (Not Kardasian. I am not a fan of huge asses), but not really outstanding when you think what else is out there if you have done any exploring.

Chain Stitch, Princeton boulders - V7?

Awesome images Justin! Def great to see some great bouldering shots from up there... as Mark said... we def don't get to see much from up there!

Morgan

Thanks for the comments guys! I am confident that the comprehensive guidebook I am working on for the Adirondack bouldering scene will help get people psyched on all of the areas that we have and hopefully lure more people into the region to sample what's going on.

Wow, those problems look great. Justin, can I use those images on the voting pages?

Joe- PM sent...images are yours for the taking! Thanks,

Justin, you're a hero. Any news on when that guidebook is coming out? I'd drive 4 hours for those climbs any weekend.

Hey justin quick note, your blog u have a photo from Thomas but u spelled his last name wrong... tomasdonoso.com/.

Sean- trying hard in between the full time office job, and shaping climbing holds for some companies and myself to wrap the guidebook up by the end of the summer. It appears that that overall goal is still realistic.

Morgan- I just checked the note on my blog photo and at first glance Tomas is spelled correctly. Are you seeing reference to his name elsewhere? Thanks again!

EDIT Just realized I ahd his last name spelled wrong. Thanks for the edit

The Wave at Lincoln Woods? Heaven help me, there are probably 100 routes at that grade that are better....

Very true Ward, but there are many people who have climbed the Wave and haven't even heard of those 100 better problems. This will certainly be mostly a popularity contest, though hopefully the really good problems will rise to the top.

Joe M. wrote:Very true Ward, but there are many people who have climbed the Wave and haven't even heard of those 100 better problems. This will certainly be mostly a popularity contest, though hopefully the really good problems will rise to the top.

Not slagging the Woods, without even thinking Mac's Traverse at V2 there is a way better route that is not on the list.

And of course you need to know all the problems available in order to vote intelligently....

This is "Light Sabre," A scary highball that I bouldered barefoot with a big pile of snow at the base out in Western Mass....
Light Sabre, V3/4

Ever heard of "Undertow" V2 or "Perfect Storm" V5 at crag Z?

Perfect Storm, V5

ward smith wrote:Ever heard of "Undertow" V2 or "Perfect Storm" V5 at crag Z?

Wow that looks gorgeous...

Have to add a worthy V11 boulder problem to the list that recently saw its' first ascent by Ken Murphy:

Gnar Wall- V11 : Brant Lake, NY (AKA Gnarnia)

climberism.com/ken-murphy-t…

Gnar Wall