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Rock Climbing Photo: No pro?  Jesse has 11 pieces under the block.
Id# 109048915, 1125 x 1500px View full size
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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
From: CT
Jun 2, 2014
Quality not quantity! But ya most of them are good... #6 is a bad bad place to put gear though.
By Jesse M
Jun 2, 2014
What is your issue with placement #6?. If your concern is that it is out of line with the other placements, the piece was slung adequately. If your concern is the hollow flake I would contest that a small enough cam slides way up and is secure. A larger cam will fit but not slide up and I would agree that would be a sub-optimal placement.

All that being said this was a demonstration showing that the climb is in fact G. Half of these placements can be skipped and the climb would still be safe.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
From: CT
Jun 3, 2014
Flared, hollow, and loose. Sure a small cam fits in there but the rock around it sucks and wouldn't hold a whipper. Just above # 5 is a constricted slot perfect for a bomber small nut. Placing a cam in that flake and expecting it to be G rated pro or even just to hold a whip is dangerous. It's just not a good placement. It's much safer to forgo that placement and use the bomber slot.
By Jesse M
Jun 3, 2014
Placement #6 as pictured is neither flared, lose nor hollow higher up. Perhaps your thinking about a different spot? It doesn't matter anyways it's trad YMMV and the picture isn't a guide for how to protect the climb it was just to show the climb is G, it's obviously over protected to the extreme.

The interwebs does have a very good tendency to turn non issues into arguments however.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
From: CT
Jun 3, 2014
If ur talking about the large pocket under the overhanging flake which is what it looks like 6 is referring to, then its def not a bomber placement due to that hollow flake. I've placed gear in there too but never would I want to whip on it considering the bomber piece just to the left and a foot or so lower. Feel free to take some video of yourself whipping on it to prove me wrong ;-) I'm always up for some good entertainment at work.
By T Roper
From: DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Jun 5, 2014
JFC anyone who has climbed for more than a few years knows that spot is no bueno for gear. flame on.
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No pro? Jesse has 11 pieces under the block.

Submitted By: Kurtz on Jun 1, 2014
On this route:
Broadway (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c )
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