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Rock Climbing Photo: No pro?  Jesse has 11 pieces under the block.
Id# 109048915, 1125 x 1500px View full size
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By Morgan Patterson
Jun 2, 2014
Quality not quantity! But ya most of them are good... #6 is a bad bad place to put gear though.
By Jesse M
Jun 2, 2014
What is your issue with placement #6?. If your concern is that it is out of line with the other placements, the piece was slung adequately. If your concern is the hollow flake I would contest that a small enough cam slides way up and is secure. A larger cam will fit but not slide up and I would agree that would be a sub-optimal placement.

All that being said this was a demonstration showing that the climb is in fact G. Half of these placements can be skipped and the climb would still be safe.
By Morgan Patterson
Jun 3, 2014
Flared, hollow, and loose. Sure a small cam fits in there but the rock around it sucks and wouldn't hold a whipper. Just above # 5 is a constricted slot perfect for a bomber small nut. Placing a cam in that flake and expecting it to be G rated pro or even just to hold a whip is dangerous. It's just not a good placement. It's much safer to forgo that placement and use the bomber slot.
By Jesse M
Jun 3, 2014
Placement #6 as pictured is neither flared, lose nor hollow higher up. Perhaps your thinking about a different spot? It doesn't matter anyways it's trad YMMV and the picture isn't a guide for how to protect the climb it was just to show the climb is G, it's obviously over protected to the extreme.

The interwebs does have a very good tendency to turn non issues into arguments however.
By Morgan Patterson
Jun 3, 2014
If ur talking about the large pocket under the overhanging flake which is what it looks like 6 is referring to, then its def not a bomber placement due to that hollow flake. I've placed gear in there too but never would I want to whip on it considering the bomber piece just to the left and a foot or so lower. Feel free to take some video of yourself whipping on it to prove me wrong ;-) I'm always up for some good entertainment at work.
By T Roper
Jun 5, 2014
JFC anyone who has climbed for more than a few years knows that spot is no bueno for gear. flame on.
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No pro? Jesse has 11 pieces under the block.

Submitted By: Kurtz on Jun 1, 2014
On this route:
Broadway (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c )
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