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> End Pinnacle
Son of Gums
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Dave Baker and Fig Fiola |
Page Views: | 2,188 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Matt Switanek on Jan 23, 2012 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Read this Access Note!
Details
Closure information appears to be in a transition state.
For the latest information, go to this link: fs.usda.gov/recarea/coronad…
Please take note of the request for climbers to avoid disturbing raptors if at all possible.
Self-policing our behavior is MUCH better than an outright ban!
CASA Page on Raptors for more information: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
For the latest information, go to this link: fs.usda.gov/recarea/coronad…
Please take note of the request for climbers to avoid disturbing raptors if at all possible.
Self-policing our behavior is MUCH better than an outright ban!
CASA Page on Raptors for more information: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
Description
Approach Pitches: Option 1 (5.10+ hard): Climb the first pitch of Cap'm Pissgums to alcove. Second pitch heads back into the squeeze chimney. On this pitch, first surmount two chockstones, then follow the darkness that takes you into a widening chimney. Near the blocks further in, chimney up again then further into the belly of End Pinnacle. This eventually opens up near the last rap of the typical descent for End Pinnacle. Option 2 (5.11): Climb the first pitch of Uncarved Block. Lastly, continue another 100 feet or so (5.5ish) up the ramp to the start of Son of Gums which will appear as the wide crack on your right.
Pitch 1) Stemming leads to one bolt that protects the difficult opening moves. Continue up large crack with a brief sampling of the offwidth to come. Exit up and left where it is obvious to do so. Belay from rap anchors (5.10-).
Pitch 2) Sustained offwidth that is great for those who wish to practice or pursue these tough love types of climbs. This pitch has more features than the second pitch of Abracadaver, but probably, in the end, is about the same difficulty. Belay on small cams and small tree (5.10).
Pitch 3) Tricky start past a bolt leads to a hand size crack that takes you to the top (5.8).
Kerry's description for the route can be found here:
climbaz.com/Backcountry/pag…
Descent: The route ends at the first of the raps for the typical descent off of End Pinnacle.
Pitch 1) Stemming leads to one bolt that protects the difficult opening moves. Continue up large crack with a brief sampling of the offwidth to come. Exit up and left where it is obvious to do so. Belay from rap anchors (5.10-).
Pitch 2) Sustained offwidth that is great for those who wish to practice or pursue these tough love types of climbs. This pitch has more features than the second pitch of Abracadaver, but probably, in the end, is about the same difficulty. Belay on small cams and small tree (5.10).
Pitch 3) Tricky start past a bolt leads to a hand size crack that takes you to the top (5.8).
Kerry's description for the route can be found here:
climbaz.com/Backcountry/pag…
Descent: The route ends at the first of the raps for the typical descent off of End Pinnacle.
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