Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
GPS: 51.6453, -4.85075
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 7,620 total · 63/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Apr 14, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

Description Suggest change

The most Easterly region of the Pembrokeshire coastline, covering from Broad Haven to Tenby. The rock is uniformly excellent (well, it's Pembroke: what do you expect?), as are the routes.

Crags such as Mother Carey's Kitchen and Mowing Word are truly world-class, featuring steep, intimidating climbing on some inspiring lines. That's not to say everything is hard: there are many routes of easier grade (and angle), consistently as good, and offering the same sea-cliff experience.

Add to this the beautiful coastal environment, with perfect sandy beaches and pristine coves, and you will want to return again and again. After all, with over 1000 routes in the latest definitive guide, you're not going to run out of rock to climb!

As with the rest of Pembroke, the rock is limestone. For the most part it is very solid, having taken thousands of years of the worst the sea can throw at it, the loose bits are long gone! Just beware of some unstable blocks on the topouts (out of reach of the sea). The friction is great, as there is not enough traffic to polish the routes, and the coastal environment seems to keep the surface rough. Take a comprehensive set of nuts to protect most of the routes.

Getting There Suggest change

For areas around Stackpole, approach from Pembroke along the B4319, signposted towards MOD Castlemartin/Castlemartin Range/Bosherton. Turn left off this towards Bosherton, and then left again just after passing the St. Govans Inn. Follow this road to the National Trust car park at the end. The climbing areas are approached from here by walking East along the Coast path.

Most of the areas at the Lydstep end are approached from the A4139 East from Pembroke, or the A478 to Tenby then A4319 West.

13 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Stackpole and Lydstep Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Stackpole and Lydstep

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Brazen Buttress
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Brazen Buttress Mother Carey's Kitchen
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Stackpole and Lydstep »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments