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5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Sparks Wall
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Airwolf V6 7A |
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All That Remains T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Danger Noodle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Divide and Conquer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Electric Turtlehead T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fire in the Hole (1st Anchors) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flat Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Generic Spark T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Go Sparky Go T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hawk, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Heel Hook Mastery 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V5 6C R |
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Ici c`est bienne T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Indian Creek Cement Company T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Jesus Gave Me Beta T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jump Start T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jupiter Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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LGS (Last Great Splitter), The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Low Spark T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Old Sparky T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rowdy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scenic Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Skraps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slings and Arrows T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Spark It Up Sparky T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Spark Plug T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spark Wallberg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sparking Spurs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Sparkle Pony Express T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sparkling Gefilte Fish T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sparkling Prom Date T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sparkling Schloob T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sparkling Schnitzel T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sparkling Spurs (1st Anchors) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sparkling Zygote T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sparks of the Tempest T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Stiff Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown OW T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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What a Fool Believes T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Zebras and Moonbeams T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Chris Kalous and Steph Bergner |
| Page Views: | 1,659 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Kalous on Apr 13, 2014 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This Yacht Rock inspired route is a short but burly tips lieback corner. Difficulty is very finger size dependent, but it's somewhere in the 11+ to 12 range. It is stacks more difficult to lead and than TR, as usual, so don't get too uppity about the grade after your partner puts the rope up and you flash it on the dull end. There is a somewhat unnecessary bolt that I placed to get past some subsequently cleaned choss, and it's a little bit of a reachy clip. Sorry. I left it because empty holes are ugly and it is nice to have for the overhanging finishing moves instead of yet another itty-bitty cam cam.
2 stars because the route is short, but its good fun and nice rock.
2 stars because the route is short, but its good fun and nice rock.
Location
A ways left of where the approach hits the cliff, past Skraps, there's a ledge above the trail. Slings and Arrows and Divide and Conquer are up there. Walk to the left end of that ledge, 50 feet past D and C, to a broken down pillar and a large corner. Scramble up the pillar into the corner. Voila. Plaque.
Protection
My rack exactly: 1 Purple C3, 5 Purple Metolius or equivalent, 1 Red C3, 1 .4 C4, 1 Orange Master Cam, QD. Confused? Yeah, me, too. You basically need one teensy cam, 5 or so .4 inch (purple Metolius), and a few bigger pieces to bury in the finger pods so you can feel better about all those tiny cams between you and the ground. Actually, a medium-large nut would protect the weird mantally move at 2/3rds height like a boss.
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