Best Superlight Rain Jacket for Multipitch?

I'm looking at the OR Helium 2 and the North Face Verto Pro. Anyone have experience with these or similar jackets? If it rains I don't want to get soaked, but would rather not carry my bulky Marmot Precip;) Thanks for any input.

helium

2.5L rain jackets tend not to be as durable a 3L ones

OR has the best warranty in the business and you dont hear about too many problems with the helium

i own and use the first gen version

its so light you can stuff it at the bottom of the back and forget about it

;)

Looks like I found something to use my REI dividend on. It seems like lots of folks like the OR Helium.

I'm a big fan of my OR helium II.

patagonia's new alpine houdini looks to be very similar.

I have no experience with North Face or other brand's ultralight rain shells.

I'd put the Patagonia Alpine Houdini and the TNF Verto Pro on the same level. A windbreaker with waterproof shoulders/sleeves.

The OR Helium 2 is more like Patagonia's M10. I find these jackets much more usable, especially if you already have a windbreaker in your kit for dry days. The choice between the 2 is mostly going to be base on price. At $150 the Helium is hard to beat.

Its a different pricepoint and isn't included in your list, but I'd add the Arcterxy Alpha SL Jacket if you're really looking for something that can stand up to serious mountain weather. Its a little beefier and in my experience (I've not tried the new Helium Jackets) can withstand anything the alpine can throw at you. I've had mine for several years and its looks and performs like it did when brand new.

Amazingly I use a Patagonia M10. I know it's not as superlight as some of the other stuff out there by OR and MH, but man for a 3 ply it's small and superlight. I've used it winter and summer. Pricey, but I got it on sale a while back and never regretted it.

The Alpine Houdini is not a windbreaker with waterproof shoulders/sleeves. It's a fully waterproof jacket, not a windbreaker.

The Montane Minimus Smock is another ultralight option: backcountry.com/montane-min…

S Denny wrote:I'd put the Patagonia Alpine Houdini and the TNF Verto Pro on the same level. A windbreaker with waterproof shoulders/sleeves. The OR Helium 2 is more like Patagonia's M10. I find these jackets much more usable, especially if you already have a windbreaker in your kit for dry days. The choice between the 2 is mostly going to be base on price. At $150 the Helium is hard to beat.

I have the Helium II and like it. It is pretty clear that Patagonia copied it (and increased the price by nearly 25%). I guess the Patagonia version could be either more waterproof or more breathable or both; if they have managed either it might be worth the extra 40 bucks, otherwise not.

One reason to go with the less expensive almost if not entirely identical version is that if you really have to climb in it (as opposed to, say, just rapping down in retreat), it isn't going to last long and you'll be looking at replacement expenses in short order.

The Montane is almost two ounces lighter than the Patagonia/OR jackets, mostly achieved, I suspect, by making it a pullover with a not particularly long zipper. If the primary intended use is with a harness, then there is no advantage to the jacket style and the pullover saves a touch of weight. But if the piece is going to be used for backpacking, hanging around, and even as a streetwear item for those iffy days in town, then the jacket style is far more practical both for ease of on and off and for venting.

Has anyone had a helmet on under any of these jackets?

Only the Patagonia Alpine Houdini specifically states that it is helmet compatible. The Outdoor Gear Lab review of the OR Helium 2 notes the hoot is quite tight with a helmet. The TNF Verto Pro looks like a helmet would fit, and the Montane Minimus, not so much?

Anyone has personal experience wearing these jackets with a helmet?

I think that some of the weight savings also comes from smaller sizing. I wear a size L in the Patagonia, and a size XL in the Montane.

rgold wrote:The Montane is almost two ounces lighter than the Patagonia/OR jackets, mostly achieved, I suspect, by making it a pullover with a not particularly long zipper. If the primary intended use is with a harness, then there is no advantage to the jacket style and the pullover saves a touch of weight. But if the piece is going to be used for backpacking, hanging around, and even as a streetwear item for those iffy days in town, then the jacket style is far more practical both for ease of on and off and for venting.

Wild things ultralight hooded wind shirt

I just picked up the TNF Verto Pro. Whisper light weighing in at 160g on the kitchen scale for a size L. The hood fits well over a helmet (unlike the standard Houdini), and I can fit one layer under it, but that is about it (I'm 6' 185 for reference).

It is a keeper, but will not be my one-and-only jacket.

The Wild Things and NF Verto Pro are wind shirts, not rain jackets.

I went with the Helium 2. It's a nice lightweight rain shell for sure. We'll see how it holds up over time.

marmot ion

mountainproject.com/v/marmo…

This isn't a direct reply, but I'd say stick with light rather than super light - i.e. sub 10z - for alpine, mountain weather. By +10, I mean basically eVent jackets on the market (Gore-tex…try event, and you'll never go back.)

I own a marmot super mica but when push comes to shove, I don't feel comfortable taking it alpine when there is a good chance it might poor. Plus, the heavier event jackets, in my experience, are way more breathable than lighter membrane, pertex, etc..jackets, making them more multi-functional in the mountains and thus cut a wind layer. My Rab Momentum breathes about as good as my Houdini at 8oz heavier…I even run in the thing when necessary.

For places like RR, Tahquitz, or the Sierra - when the weather is good, which used to be usual before the latest bout of big monsoon flows - I' go with a super light pertex/membrain, gambling on the weather not going seriously south. But I think it would suck to be in one of those, dangerous even, in a multi-hour downpour. Plus they don't seem to hold up to alpine abuse. And really, if the chances of a non-down pour are good in sierra, I just bring my rab insulated pertex jacket, which I always bring anyways - since the shell is basically waterproof and if it poors the non-taped seams aren't that much more of a liability, I think…I think because I've always had my eVent for when it pours. So basically, I've phased out the super light except for non-commiting climbs…but that's just me.

This isn't a direct reply, but I'd say stick with light rather than super light - i.e. sub 10z - for alpine, mountain weather. By +10, I mean basically eVent jackets on the market (Gore-tex…try event, and you'll never go back.)

I own a marmot super mica but when push comes to shove, I don't feel comfortable taking it alpine when there is a good chance it might poor. Plus, the heavier event jackets, in my experience, are way more breathable than lighter membrane, pertex, etc..jackets, making them more multi-functional in the mountains and thus cut a wind layer. My Rab Momentum breathes about as good as my Houdini at 8oz heavier…I even run in the thing when necessary.

For places like RR, Tahquitz, or the Sierra - when the weather is good, which used to be usual before the latest bout of big monsoon flows - I' go with a super light pertex/membrain, gambling on the weather not going seriously south. But I think it would suck to be in one of those, dangerous even, in a multi-hour downpour. Plus they don't seem to hold up to alpine abuse. And really, if the chances of a non-down pour are good in sierra, I just bring my rab insulated pertex jacket, which I always bring anyways - since the shell is basically waterproof and if it poors the non-taped seams aren't that much more of a liability, I think…I think because I've always had my eVent for when it pours. So basically, I've phased out the super light except for non-commiting climbs…but that's just me.