Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in South Face of Arthur's Rock
|
Big, Bad Book T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Blackish Blobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Corridor Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Doom Corner T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Edge Of Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Excellent Adventure S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Front Gate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Goldeneye S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
|
|
Great Corner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Great Variant, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Intestinal Fortitude S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Kiddy Pool S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Mono Matt T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Owl Roof S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Right of Passage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Rocksie Rocks S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Sunday Morning Coming Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Sunrise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Water Fountain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,385 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Scott on Mar 31, 2014 |
| Admins: | James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
2022: South Face closures from May 15 - July 31.
Per Charlie Martz: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2021: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures starting March 15th from The Great Corner (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunrise. . . and includes the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail.
Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.
Per Charlie Martz: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2021: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures starting March 15th from The Great Corner (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunrise. . . and includes the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail.
Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.
Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closures
Details
Per garrett K: The South face of Arthur's Rock is currently CLOSED for raptor nesting as of 4/7/17.
Per Rodney Ley 1: as of 21 May 2016, there is a Prairie Falcon (possibly Peregrine) nest with eggs at the top of this route (Sunday Morning Coming Down) area. The Lory State Park staff have placed a "Trail Closed" sign near the approach, but they don't mention it is for raptor protection.
Please avoid until mid-summer, perhaps the park staff will remove the sign when the birds have moved on.
Per Rodney Ley 1: as of 21 May 2016, there is a Prairie Falcon (possibly Peregrine) nest with eggs at the top of this route (Sunday Morning Coming Down) area. The Lory State Park staff have placed a "Trail Closed" sign near the approach, but they don't mention it is for raptor protection.
Please avoid until mid-summer, perhaps the park staff will remove the sign when the birds have moved on.
Description
The Great Variant is the obvious variation to climbing pitch 1 of The Great Corner. The rock is much better and the climbing is generally more appealing than the back shredding off-widths of the The Great Corner.
Start about 10 feet right of The Great Corner, and climb the featured crack system to a short bulge. Place a hand-sized cam, and move up and right through a juggy traverse to a stance at a short, left-facing corner. (DO NOT CLIP THE OLD PIN HERE. It's very sketchy and will be removed ASAP.) Continue climbing fun overlaps and face holds to the pitch 1 anchor on The Great Corner.
Descent: a 60m rope will get you down from the The Great Corner P1 anchor.
Start about 10 feet right of The Great Corner, and climb the featured crack system to a short bulge. Place a hand-sized cam, and move up and right through a juggy traverse to a stance at a short, left-facing corner. (DO NOT CLIP THE OLD PIN HERE. It's very sketchy and will be removed ASAP.) Continue climbing fun overlaps and face holds to the pitch 1 anchor on The Great Corner.
Descent: a 60m rope will get you down from the The Great Corner P1 anchor.
0 Comments