What does your Woody look like???

Kevin Hilgert wrote:Not mine, but had to share. This was posted on the routesetters anonymous facebook page. Sick!

rock wall

I wonder if this paint has any texture to it. I'm wanting to add some color to my rock wall and I keep reading that I should not use any texture because it wears out your shoes. The Atomik websites says you should use texture because it prevents the holds from sticking to the paint and ripping the paint off each time you move a hold.

Maybe the previous owner of my wall used the wrong texture paint, because in my experience the texture layer seems to make the holds pull off more pain and or spin. The texture layer is thicker and it seems like it makes it easier to peel off the wall. And I agree that its rough on your shoes and your knuckles especially with low profile pocket holds.

These things have made me want to just use a good quality non-textured paint when I build a new indoor wall from scratch someday.

I'm open to other options if somebody has a good textured method that has worked well for them.

Sr Rake wrote:Maybe the previous owner of my wall used the wrong texture paint, because in my experience the texture layer seems to make the holds pull off more pain and or spin. The texture layer is thicker and it seems like it makes it easier to peel off the wall. And I agree that its rough on your shoes and your knuckles especially with low profile pocket holds. These things have made me want to just use a good quality non-textured paint when I build a new indoor wall from scratch someday. I'm open to other options if somebody has a good textured method that has worked well for them.

I spoke to the owner of the wall i posted above on FB and they told me they used Restore textured deck paint. Restore Paint

However, for the coverage / cost I will have to use something else. I mixed sand in regular laytex and painted some on scrap wood, but my wife and I both thought it would be really rough on your knuckles with low profile holds as you just mentioned. I used an oil based primer on my wall. I might try and oil based paint with no texture and see if it will stay on the wall after removing the holds. I've read that the oil based paints dry harder, but I'm not really sure.

I used an exterior latex paint and haven't had any problem with holds ripping the paint off. Some of the holds will 'stick' (bolt is loosened and the hold won't move), and a few taps with the ratchet and the hold will pop off (without any paint).

I didn't let my paint dry sufficiently (overnight for most of the panels) and was actually expecting some sticking, pleasantly surprised at how well/easily the holds come off.

Perhaps it has more to do with environment (humidity/temperature)?

The problems with my paint coming off are probably due to improper priming and the use of a thick textured paint. It reminds me of spackle. The top coat of paint might facilitate the holds sticking too.

I wonder if a light coat of chalk or talcum powder would keep the holds from not sticking and pulling up the paint.

Will Morgan wrote: I wonder if this paint has any texture to it. I'm wanting to add some color to my rock wall and I keep reading that I should not use any texture because it wears out your shoes. The Atomik websites says you should use texture because it prevents the holds from sticking to the paint and ripping the paint off each time you move a hold.

Atomik is correct. the texture helps keep holds from spinning without a set screw too. I have let my wall paint dry for days, yet a tight hold sticks in place and peels off the paint anyway when I move it. Very low on boards the texture isn't needed, and the upper part where your hands will only reach is also a space you don't need the texture. I want to practice smearing, so who cares if it wears my shoes..that's what normal shoe use on rough rock will do anyway. Only down side I see on my wall is the black smeary places kinda make the artsy paintjob of the wall look crappy after a bunch of shoe black gets all over it.

I finally got this wall about wrapped up. I still need to go back and caulk some seams. I'm waiting on the paint to dry for a couple more days, but I did temporarily bolt a few holds up last night to climb for a bit. My walls only 22 degrees, but its really difficult for me. I've only climbed like 7-8 times in my entire life so I am complete newb at this. Last time I climb, about 5 months ago at local gym I don't remember my hands blistering up so bad after climbing. Maybe these holds are more rough because there brand new.

wall

wall

holds

yeah, hold texture can be different from one hold maker to the next. And some purposely make dual texture holds. Older holds weather our rougher over time when left outside. My outdoor wall has some holds that have been out in weather, sun over 100 degrees and cold winter at 20 below. They are wicked rough now on hands, some so bad that fibreglass and resin particles have now surfaced that do get into the skin. I use sandpaper to 'smooth' down the oldest roughest holds to make them more hand-friendly, or else my fingers are burning after only an hour or so on the wall. Newer composite and urethane holds don't seem to do as bad as the old stuff when left out exposed to weather. If your new holds, on your indoor weather protected wall are already giving you blisters, you might as well start smoothing them a bit with sandpaper now to save the pain. See if you can order future holds with less texture to them too, or a variety of textures.

Margartia?

In the shadow of that cave madness. Little weekend project stemming from a hangboard purchase, ha.

Campus board is bolted to the posts for angle adjustment.

Little campus area

hangboard side

"TSAAAAAAAAAAT" -Chris Sharma

45 on an old swing frame.

Poor man´s woody
youtu.be/uCoFqeTqy2c

Spring clean up....who else has an outdoor woodie that needs a bit of clean up and fixing each spring after a wicked winter of snow, ice and freezing rain on your wall? I finally got tired of taking down each hold in fall, and found the t-nuts got more rusty when not in use. My bolts keep the holes dry by staying up,,but the resins do take a weather beating...Some have been up for 20 years outdoors, add another 6 indoor use before I moved outdoor. Do you have a well protected structure, or get alot of wood rot season to season? I've been very lucky, with only 3 or 4 boards showing any serious rot,,and have never yet replaced a main board from the walls of the structure. Plenty of layers of paint over the years have it covered pretty good. So share your secrets. Pics are retro', from about 2001 on my summer wall.

Steep west wall section

Same section of wall, different angle pic.

Woodchuck ATC wrote:Spring clean up....who else has an outdoor woodie that needs a bit of clean up and fixing each spring after a wicked winter of snow, ice and freezing rain on your wall? I finally got tired of taking down each hold in fall, and found the t-nuts got more rusty when not in use. My bolts keep the holes dry by staying up,,but the resins do take a weather beating...Some have been up for 20 years outdoors, add another 6 indoor use before I moved outdoor. Do you have a well protected structure, or get alot of wood rot season to season? I've been very lucky, with only 3 or 4 boards showing any serious rot,,and have never yet replaced a main board from the walls of the structure. Plenty of layers of paint over the years have it covered pretty good. So share your secrets. Pics are retro', from about 2001 on my summer wall.

I live in Louisiana where we get a lot of rain and humidity. I have two huge tarps that cover the front and back of the structure. As the woody is new, can't attest to how it will look in the long run, but so far so good.

My garage woody is coming along... I've got the first of two major sections up, a 40 degree overhang. Waiting for some help to put up the 30... gotta clean the garage before then.

My woody

Gotta get more Christmas lights, while I'm at it.

David Nguyen wrote: I live in Louisiana where we get a lot of rain and humidity. I have two huge tarps that cover the front and back of the structure. As the woody is new, can't attest to how it will look in the long run, but so far so good.

I'm sure if I lived in LA or other far southern humid states,,I'd have moss growing and rot on ever board within a few summer months. Best of luck.

Wall

Did some spring yard work and took out an old tree out that wasn't doing very well. Taking the tree out allows quite a bit more sun light onto the wall (and now a nice view to take a picture from).

Getting there!

Now I've got a 40 and a 30- next step is the transition between them.

New Wall 1

Just put this up in the single stall garage

6' wide and 8' tall at about 40 degrees with a roof after!

Next step is a vertical wall on the right. (Need more t-nuts) It's been a fun project for sure!
Now it's time to get creative with volumes and holds!

Anyone have any suggestions for clever homemade holds that are easy to do? Especially for a roof area.

Edit:
Sorry, not sure how to rotate the picture from mobile...guess it's an excuse to stretch the neck out!

Rotated the pic for you.