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Rock Climbing Photo: 'Biome'
Id# 108678197, 1121 x 1500px View full size
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By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Feb 21, 2014
Biome was cleaned on rappel and then led ground up.
By Bob Banks
Feb 22, 2014
I'm only mentioning this because you made note of it (and seriously I'm not trying to be a dick), but you either do a climb ground up or you don't. Rapping down to 'clean' it is pre-inspecting the route. You can't have it both ways.
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Feb 25, 2014
Bob you are correct. This style is not ground-up. I should have said, 'cleaned on rappel and led from the ground'. Reese Martin's comment threw me off.
By Bob Banks
Feb 26, 2014
To me (and a lot of people) the term “ground-up” is you start at the bottom and what’s above is unknown and you deal with it, therein the adventure lies. Hell, it might not even be possible to get to the top. Rapping the route for any reason immediately eliminates that sense of adventure, the unknown becomes known. Bachar (one of my heroes), among others, personified this for ground-up climbing. I’d wager that Reese would backpedal a bit on his statement if he could.

Again, I wasn’t trying to hassle you, in fact I think it’s awesome people like you are out there scraping up bold first ascents in SB/Ventura Counties, it’s not like there’s a ton of quality rock sitting around for easy picking. Mostly I’m pretty psyched that someone used king-dino as a point of reference, I think you are reader #9. Cheers!
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Feb 26, 2014
No problem Bob, thanks for your response.
How do you feel about an alternate party cleaning the route beforehand? Assuming there is not any transfer of beta, this would seem to preserve the adventurous unknown element.
By Bob Banks
Feb 26, 2014
Game on. Example: The Mandala was rapped down and cleaned (by someone else) prior to Sharma's FA.

And listen, my opinion don't mean shit. I'm just some dude that barely climbs anymore trying to keep the lingo straight. If I were you no way would I balk at rappel cleaning a route on the crappy rock we have around here. And I sure as hell wouldn't trust someone else to do it for me either.
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Mar 4, 2014
I have updated each page for my climbs in the area and made note of the style in which the first ascent was done.
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Submitted By: Alex Bury on Feb 20, 2014
On this route:
Biome (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b )
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Photo Of: Alex Bury

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