Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dave Baker, Mark Axen 1972 // FFA: Steve Grossman, Fig Fiola 1975
Page Views: 6,108 total · 30/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 8, 2007 · Updates
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

pitch 1 clip a bolt and stem a strenuous face (very, very tricky 5.10+/5.11) into a bottomless chimney past 2 bolts to alcove (5.11, 40').

pitch 2 Step around right to gain main crack and continue to bolted belay at base of chimney (5.8, 70').

pitch 3 Climb right side of chimney past 'death block' (repeat, do not touch) and belay in 3"-4" crack near old bolt hole (5.8 R, 90').

pitch 4 Climb the spectacular overhanging crack in V chimney (mostly 2", 5.10+) to belay above "Y" w/ 3"-4" cams (5.10++/ 5.11, 80').

pitch 5 follow crack up and right, then left at bulge to sloping ledge below 2 aid bolts (5.7, 100'). 

pitch 6 A0 to summit OR step right to a newer bolt and 5.11 face to summit, tie off feature left of bowl (5.10, 60').

Location Suggest change

NE face of End Pinnacle (polar opposite of Days of Future Past). It is the obvious crack system.

Protection Suggest change

Light set of wires from micro to fingers
1x 00-0.4
2x #0.5 - #4,
3x #1 and 4x #2 (p4 only)
Big cams (#6-#7 will remove R rating from P3)
Optional extra 0.2-0.4

Photos

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