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Rock Climbing Photo: Trying to finesse along the atrociously slopey edg...
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By S. Neoh
Jan 17, 2014
This route is my nemesis. I LIKE to think it is WAY easier if I were 6 inches taller but I do not think so. I have heard it call .11d by TALL climbers but I think .12a is right for most. I just got to get more fit to send. A power-endurance problem for me.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 17, 2014
ive seen many very short climbers do this one... i know its steep and all but i found a few techy ways to make it more reasonable... i do it the way that most shorties do it... focusing on steaming the right foot out right in the crux to keep more weight on the feet...

that being said, it was much harder than most 12a routes at rumney for me... i would call it 12b for me...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 17, 2014
oh and as for easier if tall.... no way IMO... way easier if you are STRONG... i am quite tall and this was one of the hardest 12As ive done...
i see so many gym rats (of all sizes) walk up this thing like its nothing... that's how they train, to get strong and hold on forever... same people may find a 5.10 slab impossible, style counts for a lot...
By J Meagher
Jan 18, 2014
Yeah it is definently easier if power endurance is your style, this feels a bit soft for 12a when I work on it, whereas Vallee Daze feels like solid 12b when I work on it. I figured most tall folks would find the deadpoint easier because the stem on the right side of the roof at the crux is getting a bit polished, and tall people usually have bigger fingers which might make the tiny edges alternative a bit harder
By S. Neoh
Jan 18, 2014
Lee, stop climbing like a shortie and you will find this .12a :)
VD is more techie but less enduro than this one at .12a, IMO. And VD is more spicy on lead to boot.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 18, 2014
I am the the shortest tall climber around! or is it the tallest short climber... hmm... :)

As for Vallee Daze Vs. Orangahang... talk about an apples to oranges comparison... dont even know what to say about all that... but they are both fun climbs which is after all the important part, right ;)
By S. Neoh
Jan 18, 2014
Right on both counts, Lee.
Photo 17 of 22
Avg Score   2.0 from 1 votes
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Trying to finesse along the atrociously slopey edges...

Submitted By: J Meagher on Jan 17, 2014
On this route:
Orangahang (5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a )
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