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Routes in Sun Devil Wall
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Appendicitis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Astro Devil S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Heat Seeker S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Icarus S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Persephone's Parole T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Seventh Sun S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Suicidal Society S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sun Devil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Sun Devil Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Suntoucher S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Rich Strang & Mike Phalan |
| Page Views: | 4,483 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Rich Strang on Mar 16, 2012 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
Finished to the Top.
P1*** - Climb just right of the original Suntoucher, on steep rock with big holds that looks loose but is quite solid (Heat Seeker is the most right line with gray hangers). Climbing is mostly 5.8 with a harder 5.9ish move midway, move to the Suntoucher belay on the left at about 60 feet- 6 blots to anchors
P2*** - Move back right to clip the bolts below the roof arete. Climb the "bouldery" V2ish roof section past the first 3 bolts (climbing is mostly just left of the bolts). Exit onto the upper ramp where Suntoucher climbs straight up. From here diagonal up and right on pretty clean moderate rock to the 2nd crack and climb up to "Cactus Ledge" - Awesome belay stance!! (5.10+/11a over the roof) 60 feet - 8 bolts to anchors, can be combined with P1.
P3**** - Stem/chimney up along the pillar and move left at the 3rd bolt. Climb the right side of the roof up killer rock and diagonal left towards the arete. Make a final hardish move to the hanging stance at about 85 feet (5.10 c/d) - 10 bolts to anchors
P4**** - Head up and left from the belay, most people will probably climb into the corner. This section has weird looking rock that looks loose but we cleaned it all good - trust it. Continue up the corner (stepping right to the arete breifly is OK, we cleaned that good too) At the top of the corner, chug out left onto the headwall with some wild overhanging & squencey moves up onto a small ledge and then the top. 70 feet (5.10+) - 9 bolts to anchors (I left an intemediate bolt at the crux for people that can't clip the crux bolt easily, I may move those bolts sometime soon which will make this pitch 8 bolts)
Rappel the route with a 60m rope thru the belay ledges. A 70m rope will rap to the ground from "Cactus Ledge"
P1*** - Climb just right of the original Suntoucher, on steep rock with big holds that looks loose but is quite solid (Heat Seeker is the most right line with gray hangers). Climbing is mostly 5.8 with a harder 5.9ish move midway, move to the Suntoucher belay on the left at about 60 feet- 6 blots to anchors
P2*** - Move back right to clip the bolts below the roof arete. Climb the "bouldery" V2ish roof section past the first 3 bolts (climbing is mostly just left of the bolts). Exit onto the upper ramp where Suntoucher climbs straight up. From here diagonal up and right on pretty clean moderate rock to the 2nd crack and climb up to "Cactus Ledge" - Awesome belay stance!! (5.10+/11a over the roof) 60 feet - 8 bolts to anchors, can be combined with P1.
P3**** - Stem/chimney up along the pillar and move left at the 3rd bolt. Climb the right side of the roof up killer rock and diagonal left towards the arete. Make a final hardish move to the hanging stance at about 85 feet (5.10 c/d) - 10 bolts to anchors
P4**** - Head up and left from the belay, most people will probably climb into the corner. This section has weird looking rock that looks loose but we cleaned it all good - trust it. Continue up the corner (stepping right to the arete breifly is OK, we cleaned that good too) At the top of the corner, chug out left onto the headwall with some wild overhanging & squencey moves up onto a small ledge and then the top. 70 feet (5.10+) - 9 bolts to anchors (I left an intemediate bolt at the crux for people that can't clip the crux bolt easily, I may move those bolts sometime soon which will make this pitch 8 bolts)
Rappel the route with a 60m rope thru the belay ledges. A 70m rope will rap to the ground from "Cactus Ledge"
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