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Mars Attacks - Sedona

Original Post
Micah K · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 60

I've only had the pleasure of climbing the first two pitches and I was surprised at the gecko friction finesse the first pitch required. How does the slab on the 4th compare?

Thanks,
Micah

Mike · · Phoenix · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,615

IMHO the slab on p4 is easier by a grade or two than on p1.

NC Rock Climber · · The Oven, AKA Phoenix · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 60
Mike wrote:IMHO the slab on p4 is easier by a grade or two than on p1.
Agree. Think that pitch one is the crux, and harder than 5.9. My slab-master partner felt that the first-pitch crux move was "thin, but all there." YMMV.

All the fussing about grades aside, it is a fun and varied route. I would not hesitate to do it again.
KayLeann Leann · · Tempe, AZ · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 5

I would definitely agree that P1 is more difficult than P4. But if you have decent experience with slab and are comfortable with having nothing to hold on to, P1 is almost a breeze!

Awesome route with all types of climbing. Done it twice and wouldn't hesitate to do it again.

j mo · · n az · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 1,180

Bit easier. But p4 has some very hollow rock, including a huge chunk off the belay - go right! And another chunk up and right on bolts. Be careful. But do it

Kyle Christie · · Davis, CA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 50

As noted, the last pitch feels quite a bit easier than the first technically speaking; however its hard to mitigate drag on that pitch as the angle gets lower and lower as the pitch finishes. you'll be facing a few friction moves with lots o'drag. i've done the route a few times and remember basically running towards the final anchors.

more importantly, you've missed p.3 which is super cool, arguably the best pitch of climbing on the route.

DesertRat · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 196

Just did it today. There were 3 moves that gave me pause. The one 5.8+ move on P1, the bulge on P2 and the very last move(slab) before the walk on P4. None were hard, but I had to think about them. If you climbed the first 2 pitches, then you did the hardest moves, in my opinion.

Kyle Christie · · Davis, CA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 50
DesertRat wrote:Just did it today. There were 3 moves that gave me pause. The one 5.8+ move on P1, the bulge on P2 and the very last move(slab) before the walk on P4. None were hard, but I had to think about them. If you climbed the first 2 pitches, then you did the hardest moves, in my opinion.
Dang, you're good at slab climbing if that feels like 5.8. Very nice.
DesertRat · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 196

Wouldn't say I'm especially good at slabs. Just comparing it to other slabs I've climbed. For my 5.8 reference, I was thinking it was very similar in security and difficulty to the Original Route on Waves of Rock at Granite Mountain.

NC Rock Climber · · The Oven, AKA Phoenix · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 60
Kyle Christie wrote:As noted, the last pitch feels quite a bit easier than the first technically speaking; however its hard to mitigate drag on that pitch as the angle gets lower and lower as the pitch finishes. you'll be facing a few friction moves with lots o'drag. i've done the route a few times and remember basically running towards the final anchors. more importantly, you've missed p.3 which is super cool, arguably the best pitch of climbing on the route.
Agree that pitch #3 is the best. IMHO, it is much better than the others. YMMV.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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