Pickens Nose Route Info

So there is lot's of information on the interweb about how to get to Picken's Nose. And it's easy enough to find the climbs with a bit of exploring. But in the spirit of MP I thought it would be nice to try and post names/grades to some of the routes out there. Since it's been climbed for many years I was hoping that some of the folks on MP could enlighten me with some route info. I have numbered the routes on the pictures for your convenience.

Cameron's Wall 1. Cameo 2. Cadence 3. Camaraderie

This is the first overlook on the right and according to the Flatliners site is Cameron's Wall. Grades/FA unknown

Bolted line to the left of Cameron's Wall

This is a bolted line on the face left of Cameron's Wall

Left most climb on the "TR Wall"

Right three climbs on the "TR Wall"

The above two pictures are just east of the Nose and have bolted anchors on top of each climb. I'm calling this the "TR Wall" until someone gives me a name. Also there is a redirect bolt that would seem to indicate a climb on the south side (no picture)

The chimney west of the "TR Wall"

The chimney east of the "TR Wall"

I tried to take some pictures of the harder climbs on the Nose but none of the pictures turned out very well. So if you know anything about those let me know.

I put up one route there called "Pickens Plum", a one bolt route up a overhanging wall. Andrew Mcdowell put up some hard routes there recently. The routes you posted I have no info on but would love to find out myself. I am working on a guide book am and thinking of putting Pickens Nose in it. My name is Shannon Stegg, hope to hear back from you.

Hey Shannon. I've discussed it some with Jeff Cort. He was a fountain of information about all the routes out at Pickens but didn't know any of the names. Do you think Andrew has any info? Is he on MP?

I've thought about asking MC but I have no way of contacting him.

Andrew is a great source! He did some routes on a dirty North facing wall there, and might even have a standing project that needs to be sent, if he has not finished it already.

I would assume that Shannon's guide wouldn't overlap whatsoever with existing guidebooks.

Years ago, Bob Rotert gave me his hand typed guide book to Cashiers Valley. I was a newbie, but that did not matter to him, sharing his passion for climbing was all that mattered. I would like to return that freindly deed by updating it. Over the last forty years I have seen more than one great route earased or neutered and the history changed.

Almost everything in Cashiers besides Laurel, Big Green and Whitesides is on private land and off limits. A guidebook for any of the other stuff would be greatly advised against.

Which cliffs do you speak of that are on private land?

Timber Ridge, Sagee, PantherTail, Cow Rock, most of Fodderstack, Wildcat (just outside the boundaries of the National Forest) Black Rock Mountain, Rock Mountain, Old Bald.

I think the thread about "secret" cliffs in NC is this one:

mountainproject.com/v/black…

I'm looking for route info about Pickens Nose on federal land.

Thanks, Mark. It will be nice to know a bit more about this area. I've been there once and in addition to the routes you've documented, I recall seeing a longer, but much dirtier route further north on the same face.

I like that the only one who spells my name correct is Shannon and John Strand! PS. Who is the girl with the boobies? PSS. We aren't supposed to be climbing at Sage, Wildcat, Cow Rock or Old Baldy?, next someone's gonna tell me we cant climb on Table Rock in South Carolina?

Really depends on what part of table rock your talking about ;)

courthouse wrote:I like that the only one who spells my name correct is Shannon and John Strand

I had it wrong in my phone. I think I may have it now

Since I'm sitting around the house sick, I went ahead and made a Pickens Nose area page with what I know. Check it out and let me know if there's something that needs changing or something I can do to improve it.

check out rock house knob. it's worth the effort.

I think there are 1-2 routes left of #5 (on the top rope wall) They are much harder than the routes to the right.

Also, I cleaned the slab right of #8 (years ago) I believe there are 2 variations (both; easy - moderate). This is more of a "high boulder problem" than a climb.

Next time I go out there I want to explore those lines left (and around the corner) of #5 and see what they're like. There's one bolt on the top that I assume the intent is for an anchor directional on these other lines. The face right of #8 is cleanish now, its just that the top out involves diving through the rhodos.