Climbing trip in the Southeast

Planning a climbing trip this summer when school gets out and wanted some advice on where to go and how to get the most out of our time. Have car, cash (not much so cheap is good), climbing partner and 3 weeks to climb and travel. Don't have a van yet so will need to stay at hostels/camping grounds/legal or unmonitored camping areas.

My goal is to climb a lot - multipitch climbs are the best - and help my partner get into leading. She's really excited about trad but thinking of starting her with easy sport is a much safer way to learn. I'm comfortable leading 5.9/5.10 sport and 5.7/5.9 trad depending on the area. Not a grade strong climber (yet).

So where would you go and what would you do if you had 3 weeks for the best bang for your buck with a good climbing community? Anywhere within 12 hour drive of NY is game. If any climbers out there might have a couch to crash on or looking to hook up for some climbing travels would be interested as well.

I've been looking at:
Safe Harbor in PA
Seneca Rocks
NRG
RRG
Looking Glass
Laurels Knob

Thanks!
Matt

EDIT: edited title to more accurately reflect plans

Most people seem to like going to as many crags as possible, but I've always liked spending a long time at one place. It lets you get really familiar with an area, and the occasional rain day makes you appreciate whatever is going on other than climbing. You learn the subtleties of rock texture and features at each place, and can read protection placements better. You also get on under-appreciated climbs, many of which are just as good or better than the famous ones that everyone gets in line for. It's nice to leave a cliff knowing that you "did it" and not have to go back there for a few more years. Plus, since you quickly get familiar with an area, there's a lot less wasted time bumbling around lost looking for what should be obvious climbs/trailheads/rap anchors.

Define the time frame 'when school gets out' a little better... Rumney is fine, plenty of sport there. Only problem is black flies will be out around the beginning of June and will hang around for 3-4 weeks. Maybe before then, but it all depends on when the snow melts and when it warms up. Not far from Rumney is North Conway and everything there. There's more than a lifetime of climbs in/around NoCo, but its most trad. I wouldn't consider it a destination but if you are in Rumney/NoCo area its worth looking into the New Durham area. There's camping around Rumney and a few places around NoCo, plus the entire WMNF (but you have to abide by FS rules on that).

Otter Cliffs.... That's a long ways up there; 4-5 hours from NoCo. There's a plethora of climbs on MDI including Otter. Keep in mind that Otter is primarily top rope, belay from the top. The Precipice is a good one to look at on MDI and will be less crowded than Otter on any given day. As I recall, you can get to the Precipice by car without paying the entry fee to the park but you'll either need to buck up the $20 fee for Otter or park a mile away and hoof it in by road. There is camping up there but you should probably make reservations. And make sure the campgrounds are open when you are going to be there. I don't think it will be too busy there beginning of June but it will be by the end of the month.

Awesome! Thanks for all the replies guys - Looking at May 20-June 6.

As Dan mentioned, the blackfly issue is a big concern at many North Country crags. The Adirondacks would certainly provide what you are looking for (amazing multi-pitch moderate trad climbs, legal free camping, a short drive from home), but visiting in June might be unpleasant due to the insect issue. Early May is much nicer. The time range you mentioned...the flies will probably be coming out during that time period, and could be a problem.

Considering the things that you are looking for, the Gunks/Seneca would make for a great trip, with really good multi-pitch moderates. Both area have some super easy (but good) pitches for you friend to learn to place gear on. You could also add in a stop at the New, for either sport routes or trad climbs. A week at each (New, Seneca, Gunks) would make for a great early-summer trip.

If you were willing to drive a bit farther, the NC high country would also be a great place to go. It is probably still within your 12-hours radius, but barely. I think it would be worth the extra driving to get to visit an area that you would not see otherwise. The New England crags are places you can visit given a weekend or one week off. Longer chunks of time off (like 3 weeks) are a chance to travel farther and visit places you could not go over a long weekend. Although NC is farther south, high elevation and shade at certain crags should allow for pleasant conditions. Consider the Linville Gorge, Looking Glass, Moore's Wall, and so on. Table Rock has tons of easy multi-pitch trad routes. Be aware that NC grades are stiff, and the protection is very...traditional. You would have a great time down there. Also, a stop at Seneca and/or the New would be pretty easy to incorporate, since it would be along the way and would break up the drive.

Locker wrote:"Considering the things that you are looking for, the Gunks/Seneca would make for a great trip, with really good multi-pitch moderates.". Now I find myself agreeing with JCM. Uh oh! Trouble.

Yes, we're going to have to put a stop to this.

Medic741 wrote:Awesome! Thanks for all the replies guys - Looking at May 20-June 6.

For that time frame, I would guess you would miss the worst of the black flies in Acadia. I don't imagine there would be too many at Otter Cliffs regardless since 99% of the time there will be some sort of breeze to keep them away. The other cliffs though.... Depending on when the snow melts and it warms up you very well could be in the thick of them in the NoCo/Rumney area. It's hard to say right now, but with the weather pattern we've been in I will be surprised if it's an early spring here. Damn it's cold right now!

If you're going June-August I say ME and NH and no where south. Enough climbing to make your head spin. Acadia (Great Head & Precipe not Otters), Shagg Crag, Wild River are all not to be missed. NH has got tons of alpine crags and the Ledges in North Conway that you could live on the trail and hit a lot of NH stuff. And then there's Rumney.

the black flies are not really an issue during the day especially when you are climbing. It is the evening when you return to your valley campsite that they become a nightmare in my experience.

I like the idea of going somewhere I wouldn't be able to without that much time available, and red rocks looks amazing. Incidentally have to drop her off at NC at the end of it all

it doesn't do you much good for mulit pitch, but the nrg is some of the best climbing on the east coast.

Gunks! Acadia is nice but don't think it's worth the drive compared to your other options. Otter cliffs are nice but usually crowded (especially summer) and Precipice is fun multi-pitch but not nearly as good as the Gunks. Regardless of your ability "High Exposure" is a must with plenty of other routes to do while your there. Cathedral Ledge in North Conway is also good, plenty of multi-pitch options in all difficulties. Have fun and be smart.

ze_dirtbag wrote:it doesn't do you much good for mulit pitch, but the nrg is some of the best climbing on the east coast.

I could live in Fayettville. If I was going to clip bolts in the east I would give Rumney 2-3 days and RRG/NRG/Chattanooga area 2-3 weeks. Go south first thing, the sandstone is world class.

For the grade your comfortable leading, I would say the Gunks can't be beat. North Conway area is awesome trad climbing and worth a visit too, but I think feeling comfortable on 5.9 trad opens up your opportunities a lot more. There are easier trade routes but fewer of them then in a place like the Gunks. However, if your willing to push yourself a bit, climbs like Recompense and Deidre are worth the trip themselves, and both are well protected.

FWIW, I have a one-two week vacation in that same time period and I will be waiting til the last minute to decide where the weather is best and how bad the flies are up north.

Cheers!

skip otter cliffs and go to the precipice. There is enough great climbing there to keep you busy for a few days.

climber57 wrote:skip otter cliffs and go to the precipice. There is enough great climbing there to keep you busy for a few days.

Lets not forget about great head...

Great Head

Katahdin would be pretty incredible destination too... Gunx are good because of the plethora of easy trad routes. Only problem I'd have with the gunx is that once you've climbed 1 moderate gunx route you've pretty much climbed them all, Horizontal to crimp, to horizontal to horizontal to roof to crimp to horizontal and so on. Very boring and not a lot of variety IMO. Acadia you are above the ocean on an island with various types of climbing styles from great head to precipice. You could probably even do Acadia and then Katahdin where you're soaring thousands of feet above a cirque on the tallest mountain in ME. Knowing I could be at acadia and katahdin and instead being at the gunks would really be a let down in my book. There's a reason Acadia is a National Park while the gunx is a private reserve. Hell you could do Acadia, Katahdin, and then finish it off with a day or two in the Whites (cathedral, runmney, wild river). That would just be an epic trip that couldn't hold a candle to the gunx.

paul y. wrote:For the grade your comfortable leading, I would say the Gunks can't be beat. North Conway area is awesome trad climbing and worth a visit too, but I think feeling comfortable on 5.9 trad opens up your opportunities a lot more. There are easier trade routes but fewer of them then in a place like the Gunks. However, if your willing to push yourself a bit, climbs like Recompense and Deidre are worth the trip themselves, and both are well protected. FWIW, I have a one-two week vacation in that same time period and I will be waiting til the last minute to decide where the weather is best and how bad the flies are up north. Cheers!

Awesome! I'm comfortable leading up to 5.9+ on cracks, it's the Gunks that keeps me at that 5.7/5.8 range for trad. God it's some weird climbing...

This beta is awesome!

I agree with the majority regarding black flies. My first choice would be ADK's otherwise. I've not climbed NC.

I think the NRG would fit your needs perfectly. Stay at the AAC campground for cheap. The climbing is abundant and world-class, as long as you're not looking for 5.6's. The classic single pitch sport and trad routes range mostly from 5.9-5.12. I think there are more 5.13s and .14s than .6s and .7s

Plan a stop later at nearby Seneca for multi trad, but take this advice: study up on how to get around the crag first! What is called "muti-pitch" at Seneca is often not multi-pitch routes per se. There are many different single pitches that converge into other pitches as they advance upward and reach different ledges, and these all eventually bottle neck into a tiny handful of rappel routes from the summit(s). But don't let this dissuade you from visiting. It's a beautiful, unique crag with and abundance of awesome climbing. Camping is cheap.

So the plans for the trip have been updated and wanted some feedback from those of you who know the SE - if a mod wants to move this thread be my guest, would better belong in the SE page now. We've decided to climb the SE b/c it's the hardest place for us to access and ya really need a week + to make it wort the trip down.

After looking at all of the areas have made a pretty solid road map with drives of <6 hours for the most part between crags. We'll be leaving from just north of NYC and wanted some thoughts.

Safe Harbor crag in PA: Looks like it would be a perfect place for the girlfriend to learn how to lead - anyone climb here? Only downside is the camping looks expensive...

NRG: Sounds like this is a solid choice from what you guys have suggested. Hoping to get into harder trad lines and finally push my limits and take some falls. What are some favorite areas - there are so many... and if there are any locals that would be interested in climbing with a few out of towners will be traveling with beer and we cook good food.

Seneca Rocks looks AMAZING - again favorite routes, any locals who will be around end of May interested in climbing?

RRG - is it worth going there? Or would you guys recommend heading to NC for Looking Glass and Laurel's Knob / Linville?

Laurel's knob - Does the Gaskin finish variation have the 4 bolts that prevent the 100' runout??? Depending on what I read they're either there or not there. Would really appreciate knowing for sure haha. Of course if anyone in the area wants to climb beginning of June would love to meet some locals or other travelers.

Looking Glass - this just looks cool. Like really cool. How hard is route finding? Worth the trip?

Any comments/ideas will help! We're really excited about packing up the car and heading out and hopefully meeting up with some MP climbers!

You're definitely making the right choice heading South. Your access to the NorthEast is pretty simple, so might as well go somewhere you normally can't.

Seneca is great, very "alpine" feeling, easy to chase the shade (or sun), and lots of options in the 5.7/5.9 range. The major downside is that it's tough to find climbs your first time there. Expect to spend your entire first morning just getting oriented.

NRG is my favorite climbing area hands down on the E coast, however, like someone said above, it's not great unless you can consistently climb 5.10. There are (relatively) very few routes in the 5.7-5.9 range and are almost always crowded, especially on a holiday period (Memorial Day weekend). That said, I'll be there with a large group of friends May 23-29 or thereabouts and would be happy to point you in the right directions. The AAC campground is the cheapest, but only has port-a-johns and no running water (as of today, at least). I prefer to stay at Cantrell's which has a large, well lit clean bathhouse, and a full service bar right on the premises. The additional creature comforts are well worth the extra $3/night to me. YMMV.

RRG is the best beginner's sport AND trad crag in America. And it's ludicrously cheap ($2/night). Absolutely go there. The only downside is minimal multi pitch. This is the place to get comfortable falling. Same goes for the GF. Added bonus: You can climb all day in the rain at RRG because the routes are so overhanging. This may prove useful - May showers are very common.

Honestly, if you can climb at NRG/RRG/Seneca/Laurel Knob, there's absolutely no reason whatsoever to go to Safe Harbor. None. It's mostly short and slabby routes, many covered in spray paint, in the blazing summer sun all day long. Safe Harbor is a locals winter crag.

I would suggest doing something along the lines of 2-4 days at Seneca OR New River, 7 at RRG, then finish up your last couple days in NC until it's time to drop off your gf at her destination. Plan your rest days to be in New River - there's virtually nothing going on in Seneca and very little in Slade, KY. However, Fayetteville WV is a very cool little town with lots to see/do/eat/drink.