Must-climb sport crags in each state

I'm definitely planning on spending some time in Runmney, so maybe I'll just swing through Vermont at some point.

I keep hearing good things about Eastern Canada too. Sounds like it would be worth the trip to get up to Nova Scotia. Are there any websites with info on the climbing up there?

Cole Whitaker wrote: Sounds like it would be worth the trip to get up to Nova Scotia. Are there any websites with info on the climbing up there?

Nova Scotia offers excellent coastal bouldering on high quality granite. You can even climb on an Island in the Atlantic.
youtube.com/watch?v=wjh5c9E…

The rope climbing in Nova Scotia is sub-par though. The best trad or sport climbing in the Maritimes is located in the Welsford region of New Brunswick . Very few routes are posted on MP for NB because some locals didn't want the info on the internet.

In a nutshell the climbing in Welsford is about 550 pink granite routes in a picturesque setting with free camping. There are never any crowds. So if you're sick of waiting for routes at the local gym, give Welsford a try. You won't regret it. If anyone has specific questions about it PM me or ask in the regional climbing forum Climb Eastern Canada

Massachusetts - Farley

Regarding the Enchanted Tower in NM, going the back way does NOT require a 4WD, and adds about 40 minutes to the drive. Drove it in a 2WD Tacoma without any issues whatsoever. There is also great developed camping outside of Datil if you want to hike in from the highway. Last Chance Canyon is the best sport climbing in the state in my opinion.

For sport in Utah I'd check out Kolob Canyons South Fork. Overhanging, 150 ft, jug hauls on the coolest sandstone I've ever seen. If you are looking more for quantity, Kolob has limited sport routes, check out maple farther north.

For Utah, I'd make a plug for Rock Canyon. While most of its single pitch sport climbs are pretty average, the canyon has an uncommonly large collection of sport multi-pitch routes. It's kind of like an American Portrero Chico. There are dozens of multi-pitch climbs in the canyon that bisect the many different styles of rock found in the canyon. Most of these routes are about 3 to four pitches long, but there are at least two that I can think of off the top of my head that have more than 10. The crown jewel of these is Squawstruck, a 22 pitch climb that can be lead with about 12 draws. It's one of the longest bolted climbs in America, and a real adventure with low commitment.

If you are looking to climb really hard single pitch routes, there are plenty of better locations in Utah that have already been suggested. But if you are looking for a new sport climbing experience, the sport multi-pitch routes of Rock Canyon are worth checking out.

Connecticut - Chatfield Hollow

Idaho - Riggins
Washington - Deep Creek
Wyoming - Ten Sleep
Montana - Blackleaf Canyon