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Routes in King of Pain
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Egg Drop Soup T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Kokanee Corner, The T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Rites of Passage T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sacred Space T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Vision Quest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Ziji T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jeff Achey & Chip Chace - November, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 7,922 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Apr 7, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Sacred Space climbs one of the most dramatic walls in Indian Creek: the steep 200 foot south face of the King of Pain. One can get a good glimpse of this route from the base of the Bridger Jacks, and an up close and personal view from Hoop Dancer on Hummingbird Spire. If any more inspiration is needed, read about the FA in Jeff Achey's essay in the David Bloom guidebook. Most of what is said about this climb is true.
Approach via the original first pitch -- a long, chossy corner that leads up to the notch between Hummingbird Spire and the King of Pain (5.9 R). An alternative, much better option is to climb Egg Drop Soup (5.12-), the beautiful lieback corner just right. Egg Drop Soup's second pitch eventually joins with the original first pitch and leads to the notch. When we did the climb we used our tag line to haul up all the big gear we'd need for Sacred Space, and then lower down all the extra small gear we had used on Egg Drop Soup. This worked well. Once sitting on the narrow perch below the base of the Sacred Space crack, arrange a belay. Negotiating all the loose rock on the first couple pitches, and then gazing up at the splitter system full of wandering cracks and massive chockstones, gives the distinctly disquieting impression that the King of Pain tower is indeed falling apart. That feeling is only amplifed as one begins climbing the route, but hopefully it won't all come down until after the ascent is complete.
P1: Begin in an obvious, 30' long #5 Camalot (C4) crack. For most this should be perfect handstacks and knee locks; near the top things get wider and more creative. Continue up very steep rock and twin hand cracks, eventually reaching a cave inhabited by two massive chockstones. One of these (the refridgerator-sized one) is loose and requires mandatory yarding on. The other one (the car-sized one) seems solid. Jam around this second block and up a cruxy dwindling crack to an awkward move into a second, more cramped cave. After a good rest, initiate an incredible rising hand traverse to the right via a #6 Camalot crack before cutting the feet loose (!) and swinging over to a small ledge on the overhanging wall. The exposure here is massive! Arrange some more so-so gear and continue with the traverse to the base of the huge gash-like squeeze chimney of the second pitch. Standing up to reach the belay anchors requires a bit of grovelling and pulling on toaster-sized loose rocks in the chimney which feels altogether desperate on the lead. The anchor consists of a modern bolt and a drilled pin (both eyelets of which are cracked). The hanging belay here is uncomfortable (for a variety of reasons) and a replacement for the pin might make things much safer. This is a long pitch of spectacular, unforgettable, and full-on climbing.
P2: Launch up the squeeze chimney. At about the 20' mark there is a horizontal in exfoliating rock that can take a bad purple TCU, and at about the 30' mark there is a decent #6 Camalot placement WAY back in the chimney (only available to those that are thin). Otherwise it is 100+ feet of unprotected 5.9 squeeze, barring large tube chocks. Tunnel into the depths of the tower and emerge up top, belaying on a pile of loose caprock just below the summit. My partner, who had just done the first all-female free ascent of the Moonlight Buttress, said this pitch required her to work harder than any other pitch in her life. I thought 5.9 was fair, but the seriousness of this pitch should not be understated: With the anchor in it's current state, a fall in the first 50' could result in the death of the entire party.
Topping out involves an easy lead to the summit with the protection of a lone star drive. Getting down is another matter. Downclimb and stem to or, more boldly, jump to the north tower across a sickeningly exposed gap. Lead up to the north summit and then make a double rope rap to join with the Wild Flower rappels. Two ropes required. There might be another anchor near the top of the squeeze chimney which would allow rapping back to the notch.
Approach via the original first pitch -- a long, chossy corner that leads up to the notch between Hummingbird Spire and the King of Pain (5.9 R). An alternative, much better option is to climb Egg Drop Soup (5.12-), the beautiful lieback corner just right. Egg Drop Soup's second pitch eventually joins with the original first pitch and leads to the notch. When we did the climb we used our tag line to haul up all the big gear we'd need for Sacred Space, and then lower down all the extra small gear we had used on Egg Drop Soup. This worked well. Once sitting on the narrow perch below the base of the Sacred Space crack, arrange a belay. Negotiating all the loose rock on the first couple pitches, and then gazing up at the splitter system full of wandering cracks and massive chockstones, gives the distinctly disquieting impression that the King of Pain tower is indeed falling apart. That feeling is only amplifed as one begins climbing the route, but hopefully it won't all come down until after the ascent is complete.
P1: Begin in an obvious, 30' long #5 Camalot (C4) crack. For most this should be perfect handstacks and knee locks; near the top things get wider and more creative. Continue up very steep rock and twin hand cracks, eventually reaching a cave inhabited by two massive chockstones. One of these (the refridgerator-sized one) is loose and requires mandatory yarding on. The other one (the car-sized one) seems solid. Jam around this second block and up a cruxy dwindling crack to an awkward move into a second, more cramped cave. After a good rest, initiate an incredible rising hand traverse to the right via a #6 Camalot crack before cutting the feet loose (!) and swinging over to a small ledge on the overhanging wall. The exposure here is massive! Arrange some more so-so gear and continue with the traverse to the base of the huge gash-like squeeze chimney of the second pitch. Standing up to reach the belay anchors requires a bit of grovelling and pulling on toaster-sized loose rocks in the chimney which feels altogether desperate on the lead. The anchor consists of a modern bolt and a drilled pin (both eyelets of which are cracked). The hanging belay here is uncomfortable (for a variety of reasons) and a replacement for the pin might make things much safer. This is a long pitch of spectacular, unforgettable, and full-on climbing.
P2: Launch up the squeeze chimney. At about the 20' mark there is a horizontal in exfoliating rock that can take a bad purple TCU, and at about the 30' mark there is a decent #6 Camalot placement WAY back in the chimney (only available to those that are thin). Otherwise it is 100+ feet of unprotected 5.9 squeeze, barring large tube chocks. Tunnel into the depths of the tower and emerge up top, belaying on a pile of loose caprock just below the summit. My partner, who had just done the first all-female free ascent of the Moonlight Buttress, said this pitch required her to work harder than any other pitch in her life. I thought 5.9 was fair, but the seriousness of this pitch should not be understated: With the anchor in it's current state, a fall in the first 50' could result in the death of the entire party.
Topping out involves an easy lead to the summit with the protection of a lone star drive. Getting down is another matter. Downclimb and stem to or, more boldly, jump to the north tower across a sickeningly exposed gap. Lead up to the north summit and then make a double rope rap to join with the Wild Flower rappels. Two ropes required. There might be another anchor near the top of the squeeze chimney which would allow rapping back to the notch.
Protection
Double set of cams from yellow TCU to #6 Camalots. A couple extra hand-sized pieces. A small cam for the chimney. This rack implies much walking and back-cleaning of the larger gear.
Edit: I've been told that the crappy belay before the final chimney pitch has been upgraded with a second bolt.
Edit: I've been told that the crappy belay before the final chimney pitch has been upgraded with a second bolt.
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