All Locations > Maryland > Sugarloaf Mountain > Devil's Kitchen > Pit Fiend Rock

Balrog

Name: Balrog
Rating: 1.0

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Pit Fiend Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Balrog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	It comes in Pints? T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	No Shame T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

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Type:	Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	1,027 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Bob Ewing on Nov 5, 2013 · Updates
Admins:	Frances Fierst, C S Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details

Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.

Description

Balrog is an awkward, dirty route. It's fun, a bit intense, and then in hindsight will likely feel soft for the grade. It's more about balance than pump.

Location

The route is located inside the wide chimney on the left side of Pit Fiend Rock. You scramble for a few feet up to a roof, and then follow the crack on the right up and out, around the roof on the right to a ledge. then you climb up the dirty mountain to a spot suitable for belaying.

Protection

The route will take hexes, nuts and cams. Once you pull past the roof to the ledge, you'll probably want to sling some trees on your way up to a belay spot. There's a clutch spot for #4 cam in the crack. Given the awkward nature of the climb, rope drag will probably be bad.