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Question for the pros?

Don Ferris III · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

While I'm no pro, I'd say you transition from a beginner to pro when you start getting paid to climb whether you're an athelete or a guide.

If it's a question of experience then I would think after a certain amount of exposure to the climbing world you eventually reach another level. When a climber no longer has to think about what to do and relys on instinct to get them through an ordeal is when that level is reached. I've been climbing pretty solidly for 3 years and don't feel like a beginner but there are times when I look at routes and think to myself, "there is no way I could make it up that." I've read through Freedom of the Hills more than a few times and feel like I know my stuff but in reality when the shit hits the fan I won't have the confidence until after I've made it back.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883
Merlin wrote: Stop hurting his feelings, the younger generation is quite sensitive.
Sad but true. They are making the SNAGS of the nineties (sensitive new age guys) look like badasses.
Bootz Ylectric · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165

Never stop learning.

This applies to climbing.

Ellenore Zimmerman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 75
Boots Ylectric wrote:Never stop learning. This applies to climbing.
so true! I just got humbled on big wall climbing. I thought that even though I am not pushing hard grades on sport and trad I was not a beginner after 17 years, but no, not true when it comes to big wall. I am a novice! Climbing has so many aspects. We can become comfortable at one, yet loose the edge at another. It's a sport of constant growth and training. You can't be too sensitive either. Sometimes you have to take things with a grain of salt especially from old timers just to learn from them. Nothing wrong though to point out if people are rude or being plain jack asses. That happens everywhere not just in climbing.
Jeff Johnston · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 110
Bstoker2 wrote:At what point did you consider yourself not a beginner anymore? Was it when you led a certain 5.#?? Was it when you took a big fall? When did you find yourself finally being out of the world of beginner climbers? Thanks
I dont think that the grade you crush really compars to if you are a beginner or a pro. I have seen way to many children crushing 5.13+ but are doing stupid $#!^ as well.
I think that the point you are no longer a biginner is at the point you can saftly start shareong your past knowledge with some one that has less experince than you, but keep an open mind and realize that there are many forms of climbing.
Big Wall
Trad
Sport
Ice
Aid
alpine

I think that there are very few people that know everything about every style of climbing so it is important to keep soaking up information.
trundlebum · · Las Vegas NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 85

I guess I have never thought of this question...

So my quick answer is what the first two responses were and...

When I could go to a new crag, with no guide book and nobody around. Climb all day and have a great time challenging myself but having no epics and no real whining and...
go home with nothing more than maybe a couple ripped cuticles and slightly sore muscles.

Aaron Lefland · · Hamden, CT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 25

I have to agree with trundlebum; I stopped considering myself a beginner once I got to a certain skill/competence level rather than a certain grade. Once I got to the point that I could comfortably lead a trad multipitch (and had some basic self-rescue knowledge), I felt that I was no longer a beginner.

That being said, other people will have a completely different opinion. For example, Daniel Woods apparently did his first trad climb a few months ago. He is arguably the best boulderer in the world and I am sure that no one would consider him to be a beginner, but I believe that you need to have a fundamental knowledge of multiple aspects of the sport.

Again, this is going to vary from person to person. I am sure that there are a bunch of climbers who will say you are not a beginner once you have climbed "x" number of 5.X's.

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

Many good comments here. I'll just add that there are still many "beginners" that can climb 5.12 or better so the grade is immaterial. Snatch away their Gri-gri and they will just stare slack-jawed at the rope.

When you have many ways to skin the cat under any conditions in your bag of tricks, then you are moving from beginner to experienced.

Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245

That awkward moment when you realize that you can just use a bight of your rope in place of that $30 PAS you've been wearing around town.

trundlebum · · Las Vegas NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 85

Good one Jon.
Concise and making a great point !

Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245
trundlebum wrote:Good one Jon. Concise and making a great point !
(i still use mine. shhhhhh.)
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

As far as the differentiation between pro and non-pro goes, that one is easy. A pro is someone who does something for a profession, a career. An amateur is someone who does not do something for a profession. But dont confuse pro with expert or master as they are not the same thing. An amateur can be more experienced and/ or knowledgeable than a pro depending on the comparison.

Also, Aaron L. made a great point about D. Woods. Nowadays there seems to be a tendency for pro climbers to focus on a very narrow portion of climbing (e.g. bouldering, sport, ect.). That leads to skill compartmentalization whereby the pro's skill in his or her dedicated area is through the roof, but in other areas the pro's skill is lacking rather. I have witnessed this numerous times climbing with exceptionally talented climbers. Many of them climbed far harder than I did, but were shitty belayers, dident know how to place a cam, dident know the first thing about self rescue, ect.

saguaro sandy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 140

I just saw a video of a climber( not gonna mention his name) doing a multi day big wal solo. He has done this for years: go to the Valley and just get on routes, alone or with partners... for days and weeks on. The man was resembling Tom Hank's character in "the Lost" pretty much talking to himself, the rocks, pitons...etc. there is nothing wrong with it I suppose. The man is not hurting anybody. Although I could not help but find it very odd.

trundlebum · · Las Vegas NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 85

Sounds like Eric Ziesche on a boulder problem ;)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Beginning Climbers
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