Terrapin Station
5.11c/d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E4 6a British R
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Mike Schlauch, Mike Pennings, Oct. 8, 2013 |
Page Views: | 1,426 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | mike schlauch on Oct 24, 2013 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
Terrapin Station starts with the first section of Edge of Fright's second pitch. At the horizontal where Edge of Fright goes left, step up and right into the obvious, discontinuous crack system. Piece together the puzzle, stepping back and forth between Poe's rightmost cracks and the next crack to the left. A 3.5 or 4 cam may help protect the initial section, although we didn't have any of those on the FA.
The crux is probably where the first discontinuous crack section ends and forces you to reach left with a committing move above good gear. Have a finger-size piece ready to place. Switch back to the right crack near the top and then continue to the Mississippi Half Step anchors.
This is dedicated to Steve Dieckhoff. He and I hunted around for a new route on the right side of Poe in the early '90s, getting shut down on what is now Prequel to the Sequel (nice job on that FA!). We never completed a new route, so when Prequel was recently climbed, I decided to go have another look.
Keeping the Grateful Dead theme alive on Poe Buttress. RIP, Steve.
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