Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Mike Schlauch, Mike Pennings, Oct. 8, 2013
Page Views: 1,426 total · 11/month
Shared By: mike schlauch on Oct 24, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Terrapin Station starts with the first section of Edge of Fright's second pitch. At the horizontal where Edge of Fright goes left, step up and right into the obvious, discontinuous crack system. Piece together the puzzle, stepping back and forth between Poe's rightmost cracks and the next crack to the left. A 3.5 or 4 cam may help protect the initial section, although we didn't have any of those on the FA.

The crux is probably where the first discontinuous crack section ends and forces you to reach left with a committing move above good gear. Have a finger-size piece ready to place. Switch back to the right crack near the top and then continue to the Mississippi Half Step anchors.

This is dedicated to Steve Dieckhoff. He and I hunted around for a new route on the right side of Poe in the early '90s, getting shut down on what is now Prequel to the Sequel (nice job on that FA!). We never completed a new route, so when Prequel was recently climbed, I decided to go have another look.

Keeping the Grateful Dead theme alive on Poe Buttress. RIP, Steve.

Protection Suggest change

Basically the same as Edge of Fright, with the addition of a 3.5 or 4 cam. A 70m rope with some extra long runners or double ropes is recommended.

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