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Routes in Real Hidden Valley
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Clam Power S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Debra S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Natural Weaknesses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Odelay S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Paper Tiger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tropicalia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | left var: Deb Thompson, LP. Right var: Deb Thompson, Dave Rogers, LP |
| Page Views: | 833 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Oct 18, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
There is a left line on this lower crag. Perhaps it's been done. The left variation goes fairly easily. The right variation is a bit harder.
Ascend a natural weakness on the left side. Once at the top of the crack, you can swing around to the left on easy terrain.
Or, you can try the slot past the bush passing a bulge. This was a challenging 10- PG-13. Note, this may be easier for taller folks. It could feel harder for thicker folks. It sort of feels Vedauwoo-esque. I was considering a bolt on the traverse, but one can do this on gear...with some spice...so no bolt. It's a bit challenging to get to be able to place pro on the slot, don't miss the good right foot hold.
This one sort of called out to be climbed after flailing on a thin slab TR probe.
Ascend a natural weakness on the left side. Once at the top of the crack, you can swing around to the left on easy terrain.
Or, you can try the slot past the bush passing a bulge. This was a challenging 10- PG-13. Note, this may be easier for taller folks. It could feel harder for thicker folks. It sort of feels Vedauwoo-esque. I was considering a bolt on the traverse, but one can do this on gear...with some spice...so no bolt. It's a bit challenging to get to be able to place pro on the slot, don't miss the good right foot hold.
This one sort of called out to be climbed after flailing on a thin slab TR probe.
Protection
There are 2 bolts at the top of Tropicalia for anchors.
To do the easier TR, set directionals with a #3.5 and/or #4 Camalot and 4' slings.
To do the harder TR, directionals with a #3.5 Camalot & 4' sling, #5 Camalot (old size), and #4 Bigbro will reduce swing.
To lead the right version (which will be interesting), some gear possibilities include: #0.75 Camalot, wire, orange TCU, wire, #3.5 Camalot, yellow Alien, #5 Camalot (old size), #4 Bigbro.
To do the easier TR, set directionals with a #3.5 and/or #4 Camalot and 4' slings.
To do the harder TR, directionals with a #3.5 Camalot & 4' sling, #5 Camalot (old size), and #4 Bigbro will reduce swing.
To lead the right version (which will be interesting), some gear possibilities include: #0.75 Camalot, wire, orange TCU, wire, #3.5 Camalot, yellow Alien, #5 Camalot (old size), #4 Bigbro.
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