Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: P.R. Littlejohn, C. King, 17/11/1977
Page Views: 554 total · 4/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Jul 27, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Exposure right from the start, a spicy crux, perfect rock and immaculate wall climbing in the upper half: an absolute must!

From the very top of the ramp, traverse out left over space to a small ledge then take a rightwards-slanting crack past two ancient pitons to good nut placements. Build yourself a nest of gear and take a deep breath, then run it out up and leftwards to the base of an open groove, jugs and a very welcome peg.

Crux over, continue up the groove (piton in the rib on the left) on some of the best rock in the gorge. Clip a high peg on the right, then step left around the rib to a couple more pitons. A thin crack leads rightwards to yet another piton and a sting-in-the-tail move to gain the top.

Location Suggest change

The very top left of the ramp; keep walking until you can't go any further.

Protection Suggest change

Mostly fixed gear (8 pitons at my count). Use double ropes and a fair number of extenders or the rope drag will be beastly. A selection of good (and well-tested!) nut placements are available before the crux.

Photos

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