Little Yellow Jacket
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.5 from 32 votes
Type: | Trad, 580 ft (176 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | John Kear and Allan Aiken - 2005 |
Page Views: | 7,375 total · 37/month |
Shared By: | John Kear on Nov 28, 2007 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Pitch 1 - Start on a steep red blunt arete, climb straight up through a bulge and exit left on to a steep slab. Climb up past bolts past a horizontal break, continue up a corner and exit right to easier climbing and the belay, 110ft (5.11-)
Pitch 2 - Move up and left staying out of the corner on clean face climbing to gain a pin. Aim for a short left-facing corner, climb the corner and exit right to a ledge, a few more moves up and left gains the belay. 115ft (5.10a)
Pitch 3 - Straight up corner 40ft, mantel up and left, trend up and left on perfect stone past a bolt and piton to the belay, 115ft (5.10+/5.11-)
Pitch 4 - Traverse left off of the belay to an open book, climb up and exit right to corner and crack system, eventually under clinging out right and up to the belay ledge, 120ft (5.10c)
Pitch 5 - Climb up and left to a small ledge clip the bolt and do a delicate traverse left (crux) into a gully. Climb good rock on the right wall of the gully to another ledge. Climb the pillar directly above the ledge via a thin crack that leads to a wild block/flake, climb directly over this to the summit. LYJ does not stay in the left hand gully. 140ft (5.11a)
Pitch 2 - Move up and left staying out of the corner on clean face climbing to gain a pin. Aim for a short left-facing corner, climb the corner and exit right to a ledge, a few more moves up and left gains the belay. 115ft (5.10a)
Pitch 3 - Straight up corner 40ft, mantel up and left, trend up and left on perfect stone past a bolt and piton to the belay, 115ft (5.10+/5.11-)
Pitch 4 - Traverse left off of the belay to an open book, climb up and exit right to corner and crack system, eventually under clinging out right and up to the belay ledge, 120ft (5.10c)
Pitch 5 - Climb up and left to a small ledge clip the bolt and do a delicate traverse left (crux) into a gully. Climb good rock on the right wall of the gully to another ledge. Climb the pillar directly above the ledge via a thin crack that leads to a wild block/flake, climb directly over this to the summit. LYJ does not stay in the left hand gully. 140ft (5.11a)
Location
Located about 100ft down and around the corner to the northwest of the start of Second Coming. Walk off the top.
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