Type: Trad, 580 ft (176 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: John Kear and Allan Aiken - 2005
Page Views: 7,375 total · 37/month
Shared By: John Kear on Nov 28, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1 - Start on a steep red blunt arete, climb straight up through a bulge and exit left on to a steep slab. Climb up past bolts past a horizontal break, continue up a corner and exit right to easier climbing and the belay, 110ft (5.11-)

Pitch 2 - Move up and left staying out of the corner on clean face climbing to gain a pin. Aim for a short left-facing corner, climb the corner and exit right to a ledge, a few more moves up and left gains the belay. 115ft (5.10a)

Pitch 3 - Straight up corner 40ft, mantel up and left, trend up and left on perfect stone past a bolt and piton to the belay, 115ft (5.10+/5.11-)

Pitch 4 - Traverse left off of the belay to an open book, climb up and exit right to corner and crack system, eventually under clinging out right and up to the belay ledge, 120ft (5.10c)

Pitch 5 - Climb up and left to a small ledge clip the bolt and do a delicate traverse left (crux) into a gully. Climb good rock on the right wall of the gully to another ledge. Climb the pillar directly above the ledge via a thin crack that leads to a wild block/flake, climb directly over this to the summit. LYJ does not stay in the left hand gully. 140ft (5.11a)

Location Suggest change

Located about 100ft down and around the corner to the northwest of the start of Second Coming. Walk off the top.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Sandia Rack (single set of cams and nuts to 2" or 3", it is nice to have doubles in the .5 to 1.5 inch range) All the anchors except the top have one bolt with gear options. All pitches have some fixed gear.

Photos

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