City of Lost Children
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Brad White and Jim Frangos Summer 1983 |
Page Views: | 667 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Robert Hall on Sep 17, 2013 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
City of Lost Children 5.8 / 5.8+ Some 5.3-5.4 R FA Brad White and Jim Frangos Summer 1983 Originally put in moving right to Bugs Eat Frogs' belay, continuing straight up (option "A") makes for a nice climb. A new 3/8" bolt at the crux replaced the 30+ yr-old 1/4".
P1 Climb past the bolt (5.8 / 5.8+). Once above the crux the climbing eases considerably. 20 feet above the bolt a fractured flake on the right gives false promise of protection (the flake is 'hollow'), but about 50-60 feet up a small ( 1 ft) curving flake on the left grabs a green (# 1) Camalot like a beggar does a $20 bill. Now either:
A) continue straight up,(easy), clipping one more 3/8" bolt [about 110 ft up] and then up and right to the gear belay at intersection of the the overlap and the Picnic Table dike, (and then up the dike to the top); or....
B) [as per the F.A.] from the green Camelot placement, move about 90-degrees right to the "Bugs" belay. Finish on "Bugs"; or....
C) Up and left to the Table Scraps belay Finish on P2 & P3 of Table Scraps (which certainly maintains the grade !) or finish via P2 and P3 of "Holy Smoke" (See Var. for Table Scraps)
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