Anyone else on mp heading to Yosemite for the AAC climbers meetup?

Will be great to see last year's friends, and meet new fellows.

See you guys in the valley!

One of our hosts, Joe Lemay, told me he knows of a lot of routes in the Valley that are moderate, 5 star, and not crowded. Hit him up for information when you get there.

I'd certainly be keen for Snake Dike, it looks like a proper day out ;)

However if anyone can offer some pointers to similar but quieter outings it will be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Tim

Mike Grainger wrote:Will anyone else be in California a bit ahead of the ICM? I will be in the Bay area starting Friday Sept 27, and would like to partner with someone for that weekend. I'll have a rental car and full gear. We could do day trips around the Bay area, or do a weekend road trip. I'm up for pretty well anything, trad, sport, top roping or bouldering, as long as it's fun! I lead sport to 5.10, well protected trad to 5.8.

Hi Mike,

I am flying into SanFrancisco on Thu 03 Oct so will be there earlier also before making my way to Sacramento. I'm going there to do a little sightseeing beforehand but would be quite happy to meet up for a day to do some bouldering or similar that's nearby.

Slim, is this the payment you expect for me borrowing your Valley Giants & Big Bros?!?!

Cor wrote:Hey Alicia, For gear & clothing: - A standard (Double if you can) rack is good, and a single (60 or 70m) rope.

Hey Cory,
thanks for the gear list, it's particularly useful for us first-timers in Yosemite...

I wanted to ask regarding the rope, because I usually climb multi-pitch routes with a double rope and I would love to climb some long routes in the Valley. So having long routes in mind, would you still recommend a single rope?

Looking forward to meeting you in the camp!
Nogah

Nogah wrote: Hey Cory, thanks for the gear list, it's particularly useful for us first-timers in Yosemite... I wanted to ask regarding the rope, because I usually climb multi-pitch routes with a double rope and I would love to climb some long routes in the Valley. So having long routes in mind, would you still recommend a single rope? Looking forward to meeting you in the camp! Nogah

Most Americans climb single-rope style, while doubles are a lot more common in Europe. From reading a lot of the descent notes in the Supertopo guide, and from reading a lot of the route descriptions, it sounds like doubles would be great to have.

What you may find, though, is not quite as many climbers familiar with double-rope belay techniques, and especially, rope-management techniques on multi-pitch belays.

Nogah,

Americans do use double ropes (half ropes) and they would be useful in the Valley.
For sure if you are going to focus on long day routes with people.
They would not be as good (as you probably know) for cragging (single pitch.)

I have and use doubles often. Will I bring them? No. I will end up bringing a single durable lead line. I think it is more versatile overall. If I have room in the bag after everything, then I will add a half rope (7 to 8m) as a tag line for descents.

Hope this helps, as I guess there is no right answer. :)

C

Cor wrote:Slim, is this the payment you expect for me borrowing your Valley Giants & Big Bros?!?!

Who is slim? That picture is from Burning Mont.

Carol: It's a bit early but is there an established way for everyone to post their pictures? Speaking for myself, my photography skills stink and whatever decent shots I get are of other people.

It would be cool to sit around the campfire and see what other folks climbed that day.

Hi all,
Looking forward to meeting you and getting some world class climbing in!
Looking to do some moderate multi-pitch which for me means probably 5.8. I hear it is slick out there.
See you in a couple of weeks,
Chris

Kurtz,

We don't really have a power hook up in the Valley (at camp where we will be)
so I am not seeing that happen. After the event we have some places to share
photos (like here, or Facebook) that you think are good, or of new friends you make...

Hope this helps. It would be awesome to have a upload station & screen at camp though.

Cheers,
Cory

Hey Cor,

Is Arrowhead Arete a reasonable, moderate long-day climb? The pictures of the ridge near the summit look amazing.

I've had my eye on Arrowhead Arete as well. From what I've read it's an adventurous outing - after a cragging day or two you'll have a better idea if Yosemite 5.8+ feels moderate to you. I'll be interested in what Cor has to say about this one.

Hi all

I'm starting to think about sorting the rack and selecting which gear to bring. Nuts and cams seem to be a definite yes, are hexes any use in the valley or shall I save the weight on my already stretched luggage allowance?

Cheers

Tim

I'm going add my two cents into the conversation while were on the topic of 'classic' lines. I've climbed a lot of the popular moderates (i.e. Royal Arches, Snake Dike, Commitment, etc.) and have still yet to find a climb that compares to the fun I had on mountainproject.com/v/goodr…. If your into amazing slab climbing, this is the line to do.

Also I'll be in the Valley all October but I'm not participating in the AAC MeetUp in particular. Hope to meet some fellow climbers! Have Fun!

I'm not sure about the picture posting while we are there. Later we can post on the International Climber's Meet Facebook page.

Tim Jones wrote:Hi all I'm starting to think about sorting the rack and selecting which gear to bring. Nuts and cams seem to be a definite yes, are hexes any use in the valley or shall I save the weight on my already stretched luggage allowance? Cheers Tim

Hi Tim,
Hexes will work in the Valley but I think it depends on how hard you want to climb. I don't like fiddling with hexes on anything hard at all. If your strapped for room in your bag I would leave them behind. Stoppers work super well.
Carol

Carol Kotchek wrote: Hi Tim, Hexes will work in the Valley but I think it depends on how hard you want to climb. I don't like fiddling with hexes on anything hard at all. If your strapped for room in your bag I would leave them behind. Stoppers work super well. Carol

Thanks Carol, I'll mov ethem down the priority list a little. Whilst I would agree that they can be fiddly I do fiund them super versatile where you can relax a little whilst placing gear.

Cheers

Tim

Sorry for late responses... The floods have me going crazy around here. Many people want my services, but there is only so much of me to go around... sigh...

So to answer a few questions. Nuts, and cams! A double set is good. up to a #3 or 4 BD

I will try to bring some OW gear as well.

Other items that prove to be very useful is the little brass offset nuts,
and offset cams for the classic pin scars. In the small size cams I usually carry
a regular small set (.5 BD size and down) and an offset set.

Cheers,
C

PS: I have not done the Arrowhead Arete. So I can't provide the beta on this one.
What formation is this one on? Maybe we should do it!