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Son of Slime
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 3.3 from 6 votes
Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,591 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | rocknice2 on Sep 16, 2013 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues
Details
Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Description
Jump on this route when it's dry. Good friction throughout.
P1- 5.10a PG13 Start from a bolted anchor on ledge and climb up to base of C-Tips to place your first pro. Continue traversing right with some gear [small nuts or large RP's useful] to a stance slightly above a bolt. Clip bolt and down climb [crux] below it. Make a series of long thin face moves to another stance [good gear once there] or down climb more [easier] to a second bolt [DON'T CLIP 2nd BOLT] traverse and climb up to stance. Make your way to the bolted rap station.
P2- 5.9+ G/5.7 R Climb the obvious crack to a pair of bolts then climb to a second pair of bolts. Move over the 2nd pair and climb easier with scarce pro to ledge.
One 50m rap or two 30m.
There are 2 or 3 more pitches above but I didn't do them.
P1- 5.10a PG13 Start from a bolted anchor on ledge and climb up to base of C-Tips to place your first pro. Continue traversing right with some gear [small nuts or large RP's useful] to a stance slightly above a bolt. Clip bolt and down climb [crux] below it. Make a series of long thin face moves to another stance [good gear once there] or down climb more [easier] to a second bolt [DON'T CLIP 2nd BOLT] traverse and climb up to stance. Make your way to the bolted rap station.
P2- 5.9+ G/5.7 R Climb the obvious crack to a pair of bolts then climb to a second pair of bolts. Move over the 2nd pair and climb easier with scarce pro to ledge.
One 50m rap or two 30m.
There are 2 or 3 more pitches above but I didn't do them.
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