Type: Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: John and Ruth Mendenhall 1940
Page Views: 1,969 total · 15/month
Shared By: Joshua Reinig on Sep 10, 2013 · Updates
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

From large ledge up and left over Small roof w fixed pin. From here take your pick between number of variations.

The most obvious will be the cleanest. Route can be dirty and loose. Lots of fun maybe a step up from The Trough but not as clean.

P1. Class 4 climbing to the top of the bus-sized boulder at the base of the Northeast Farce dihedral, which is also the start of El Whampo. 

P2. Climb brushy ledges and a chimney to the left. Mostly 4th or easy 5th class, with a  protectable 5.6 move in the chimney. Continue past a ledge with a pine tree, then through an overhang, 5.6, to a large sloping ledge next to a right-facing diheadral. 

P3. Climb a double crack system up the dihedral, with easy climbing mixed in with two vertical or overhanging cruxes, 5.6/7. The dihedral tapers off and vanishes. Exit to the left, being extremely careful of a band of loose rock. Semi-hanging belay on orange-stained slabs. 

P4. Climb the orange slabs, bushwhack left through chinquapins, and continue left to a shady belay in the branches of a huge tree. 4th class. (Optional exit from here to the north gully.) 

P5. Regain the rib by stepping off of a boulder next to the tree. Climb face to a ledge. Optional belay to avoid rope drag. Continue up a double crack from the right side of the ledge. Belay at the apex of the rib, at a saddle behind a car-sized boulder. 5.4. 

P6. Bypass the boulder by passing around it on the left. Continue up a low-angle crack. 3rd class

Location Suggest change

Starts atop left side of large ledge. Descend North Gully.

Protection Suggest change

Gear to 2 inches

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