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TC pro vs. Katana lace

Original Post
peter coe · · utah · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 425

I am looking for a step up in support from the mythos. I am looking at the tc pro and the katana lace. I've heard a lot of good things about the tc pro, but as far as i can tell from the sportiva website they seem to be the same shoe but the hightop of the katana. I say that because they both have the p3 platform and both have the sportiva last of PD55.

Looking for opinions or experience with both. Thanks!

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

Man that is a tough choice...

My only two shoes I use, TC Pro & Katana Lace up.

That being said, I use both for high end (difficult) climbs.
The TC is used for long multi pitch, where I want performance & comfort.
The Katana I use for Single pitch, footsy stuff, thin crack, steeps, gym.

The Katana has more down turn toe than the TC, if I remember correctly.
Also the TC is stiffer (or at least until you break them way in...

Hope that helps a little, happy Friday!

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

They feel like the same shoe to me! They both cause the middle of my foot to hurt, unlike any other shoe I've worn even though on the ground they fit perfectly.

The TC pro has a very thick rubber which felt clunky at first.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

different applications ...

the katana lace is a downturned very stiff precise shoe ... think miura with a wide toe box ... very good at edging

the TC pro is more rounded with a thicker sole ... with your foot being flat for jamming/smears

ask yourself what youll be climbing ....

;)

kevino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 0

Cor and others that climb in both,

Do you have them sized the same? I know what size I wear in the TC pro but have no place local to try on the katana lace. Similar to muira vs? (sizing wise)

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265
petercoe wrote:I am looking for a step up in support from the mythos. I am looking at the tc pro and the katana lace. I've heard a lot of good things about the tc pro, but as far as i can tell from the sportiva website they seem to be the same shoe but the hightop of the katana. I say that because they both have the p3 platform and both have the sportiva last of PD55. Looking for opinions or experience with both. Thanks!
havent climbed with the tc pro. wear 8.5-9 mens shoe and use a 41 katana lace, 41.5 womens miura. FWIW i climb slab, vertical, and crack in them. While not the most comfortable for slab (they dig into my ankle a wee bit) they are a machine of a shoe. My big toe just barely lies flat with last three slightly curled. I do like the wide toe box.

Only down side is that the wide toe box fits my feet but the rest of my foot is low volume so i have to crank them down super tight if i want to be able to get super techy on micro edges and such
Patrick Pharo · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2003 · Points: 30

I use, and really love, both. I size the katana lace a half size bigger.

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

I am wearing a half size larger in the TC. (Fits well with and without socks.)

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

The Katana Lace do soften up quite a bit with wear. After the XS Edge rubber wears out, try resoling with XS Grip 2 or 5.10 C4. I feel like I am cheating somewhat climbing techy stuff (outdors and in) with this shoe/rubber combo, compared to Miura/XS Edge combo I had before the Katana Lace. I made the switch two seasons ago.
I have no experience with the TC Pro.

John Tissavary · · NY, NY · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

Sorry for the hijack, but where can I get xs grip 2 rubber? I have a pair of beloved Scarpa instinct s in need but can't find a resoler with that rubber...

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

For XS Grip, try newenglandresoul.com/?page_…
Now that I read it again, I am not sure if they resoled mine with Grip or Grip 2. Call them if you want to know for sure. Grip is sticky. C4 might be a touch more sticky still under certain conditions.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

Katana lace stiffer than the TC Pro, TC Pro smears better than Katana lace...how do you people arrive at these conclusions?

TC Pro is definitely the stiffer of the 2 choices & Katana lace is definitely more sensitive & downturned. When both are sized for crack climbing performance (the only reason I'd see someone cross shop these 2), Katana lace is better at thin splitter type cracks (& way better in overhung terrain), TC Pro at all the wider stuff (way better for OW & chimney). They both edge well, but your feet will fatigue more w/ Katana lace.

As for the Grip 2, I've talked to Eric @ R&R on multiple occasions, Sportiva does not import Grip 2 (Grip v1 was imported for a while), & I've not found anybody in the states that carries it for resole. Of the rubber available for resole, Onyx is pretty close to Grip 2, C4 is way softer in warmer temps/rock, not to mention way less durable.

falling monkey · · The West · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 30

I own both of these shoes. The Katana I use for everything its amazing. I use the TC Pro for going to the creek/crack climbing and sized it 1/2 size up from my Katanas. This shoe makes your toes flatter whereas my Katanas rape my toe knuckles in cracks but are awesome for face climbing.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

You can also buy a women's version - for some reason, Sportiva puts different rubber on their shoes that come in gender-specific versions. XS Edge on men's and XS Grip2 on women's.

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385
doligo wrote:You can also buy a women's version - for some reason, Sportiva puts different rubber on their shoes that come in gender-specific versions. XS Edge on men's and XS Grip2 on women's.
I think you're thinking of the Katana Velcro which comes in a women's version.
doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

right, they don't make lace in women's, duh.

Clay C. · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 15

Did anyone have any problem with the TC Pros making their heels hurt, like bad?

michael faith · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 760

Off and on I get pain in my right heel where it meets the achilles while wearing my TC Pros.

knowbuddy Buddy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 225

I love both my TC pros and katana laces. I agree with reboot on how they perform, tc pros are the only shoe i take on desert towers and i wear katana for thin single oitch crack. Got my katanas resoled with xs grip but the rubber room fucked them up twice and they're peeling. I bought a sheet of grip a few years ago to work on resoling my self. Ill use my katanas for thinner cracks but I use my ladies Muira Velcro for face climbing. The ladies has grip but on cracks the Velcro sucks. My Muiras and katanas feel the same and perform very similar. If you like the fit and shape of the katanas, find a pair of acopa Merlin's, it'll pretty much blow your mind.

Clay C. · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 15

yeah, michael faith thats exactly where mine hurt. Its quite excruciating. i exchanged them for a larger size but theyre still hurting. i might just exchange them for the mythos. i like the overall performance of the tc pros, they just dont work with my feet i guess.

michael faith · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 760

I'm switching back and forth between mythos and tc pros. They seem to be getting more tolerable with use. Also, I find I have to adjust the laces, top to bottom, every time or it hurts immediately. While not something I'd wear on muoti -pitch at the moment, I'm happy to suffer for a couple hours for the performance.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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