Toprope Master Point Question
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Question about two situations building a toprope anchor. |
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I'd be comfortable climbing on both. I'd prefer a nylon sling or cordelette just because the beefiness makes me feel better, but otherwise good to go! |
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Offhand - you shouldn't tie knots in spectra/dynex/dyneema, plus it [the knot] adds nothing to the anchor. |
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I mean this in the nicest way possible... If you have to ask, then you should take a class or hire a guide. Even hooking up with a more experienced climber for a few pitches would be good a better option than trusting the advice you get from random strangers on the internet. |
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Thanks, all. |
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both are fine |
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Option #1 is the best of the two for sure. The knot you tied is called a BHK (Big Honkin' Knot). Most of the time they are tied just using an overhand knot, but Figure 8's work just as well if you've got the extra rope. |
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Why not use the 3rd pic by bringing the orange cord and blue cord together and clipping into both? Unless you need that extension of the sling to get over the edge I would just bring the 2 cords together and eliminate the sling and the 2 extra biners. |
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John Wilder wrote:cant quite figure out why you have a tail bight coming out of the top of the fig 8 (the third loop) in the one picture- maybe i just dont understand the setup you're describing, but i've never encountered a situation where i would have that kind of a knot.Look at photo 1 and tie a figure eight using the bottom loops. The bight comes from that top loop. Google "BHK knot" or "BFK knot" |
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Seems like you are making things way to complicated. |
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John Wilder wrote: i get that- i just thought the other loop was meant to be around a tree. but then, i never set up TR's and I never use trees (desert dweller) much for anchoring unless they're big enough to do it by themselves. also, if that is indeed what is pictured- why on earth would you do that? seems like a waste of rope and energy- a regular 8 is fine. if you really want to get crazy with is, a Super 8 would serve better, since it doubles the rope where the carabiners are instead of just leaving a big ass tail of rope that serves no purpose.The reason you do it is so you can adjust the height of the master point over your edge. It also provides the redundancy you mention from the super 8. |
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Dustin said it ^ |
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Matt N wrote:Offhand - you shouldn't tie knots in spectra/dynex/dyneema, plus it [the knot] adds nothing to the anchor.i disagree- definitely tie a knot. that fig 8 in the spectra runner adds redundency and limits extension. if a strand of the runner were to fail, anchor will still hold. without the knot, the whole anchor fails. but, the knot does need to be dressed and tight to limit the amount it will move in the event of being suddenly weighted, and a nylon runner or cord (as mentioned above) is a better option for that component of the anchor. |
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Option 1 is standard and OK except you can tie your 8 on a bight cleaner with just the two loops, but your "BHK" is fine, if not elegant. |