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Rock Climbing Photo: Working a new route in the UAE. Going back soon to...
Id# 108283258, 384 x 298px
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By hatman
From: Bend, OR
Aug 10, 2013
Attempted first ascent.
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 10, 2013
Wow, what a line - where is this??!
By hatman
From: Bend, OR
Feb 17, 2014
Sirius, thanks for your comment. Sorry for not replying sooner! I don't often log into this page, and when I did I have not found your comment before. I don't know where it has been hiding, cos this time it was blatantly obvious that I had a message.

In response to your question: this line is called Dogs of War and it is at Zombie Skull. Ironically I have just given it its' first lead today! It finally allowed me to pass its crux, 6 years after first seeing the line and giving up on the slab as there appeared to be no protection to reach the alluring cracks. Two years ago I went back to it to bolt it, and discovered that there was protection after much cleaning! Unfortunately my trip ended before I could get on it. Last year I finally got to try it, but 4 of us could not muster up the courage to make the committing swing with legs off the rock to a smear, so we merely TR'd it. Today I rested on the rope twice before successfully getting it done. Rope drag was a problem even with two ropes so after putting in two bomber pieces in the finishing crack I untied the rope from the lower half of the climb. So it can now get advertised as a very worthwhile route, and joins my other 130 new routes. My partner, Duncan Darnell agreed a grade of about E3 5b (which according to Rockfax equates to about 5.10c). The route is about 20mtrs of 5.8/5.9 slab with sparse but sufficient protection and 9mtrs of roof and hand/fist crack. A walk-off is very handy! A very complicated anchor at the top required pre-rigging to save time, while I waited for Duncan to turn up for the climb. Prior to leading Dogs of War, as a warm up for the day, I let Dunc lead the second ascent of a route called Calcite Kid (VS 4c about 5.9). He'd been my second during my first ascent, so it was fitting that he got the second ascent! Unfortunately, after Dogs of War, we went to my next project at a different crag and got shut down before I even reached what I had figured was the crux (a 17 foot horizontal foot traverse with one piece of gear and snappy hand holds - one solid hold the entire way!). Anyway, a little off topic now. thanks for your interest
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Working a new route in the UAE. Going back soon to lead it clean.

Submitted By: hatman on Aug 10, 2013
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