Recommendations for Gunks 5.5's?

William Nelson wrote:I'm so excited to check this place out. I've been reading all the threads on gear suggestions (I haven't used my pink and red tricams for years). I hate to wait in line. Feels like I'm climbing in an outdoor gym waiting for popular moderates at Red Rocks and Tahquitz sometimes on the weekends. If anyone is willing to show us around the first day (route finding, raps, walk offs, etc). Speaking of raps and linking pitches is there any advantage to a 70 m over a 60 m rope? I'm planning on climbing Aug 27-29/30. Thanks for taking the time to read this exhaustive post.

I would love to show you around but I'll be working.
Climb during the week, no crowds. A 60m is fine. Try to use the bolted rap routes (shown in the guide book) when convenient. A few raps will leave you hanging unless you have doubles or a 70m.

doligo wrote: 70M is a must if you want to link up Son of Easy O, done that way is the best moderate pitch in the Gunks, IMHO.

60m is plenty.

Puzman wrote:I've recently lead Fingerlocks, Horseman, and Sixish, and would like some recommendations for "easier" 5.5 leads in the Trapps.

+1 Ursula, Arch, Middle Earth, Jackie, RMC, No Picnic, Double Chin

AML wrote: 60m is plenty.

70 is nice if you want to rap without the intermediate cluster-eff at the Easy O, IIRC...

doligo wrote: Moonlight and Miss Bailey are perhaps the most overlooked 3-star climbs in the Gunks.

I think you missed the part where he said he wanted to avoid traverses. Moonlight is a fantastic climb, one of the best at the grade, but that traverse is pretty mind-blowing, and is the crux.

So get on it forewarned.

GO

GabeO wrote: I think you missed the part where he said he wanted to avoid traverses. Moonlight is a fantastic climb, one of the best at the grade, but that traverse is pretty mind-blowing, and is the crux. So get on it forewarned. GO

hehe P2 traverse/roof on Wrist is pretty awesome too.. jugtastic but nicely exposed.

wrist P2 is great.

Way upthread, someone mentioned Rhododendron...harder than you've requested, but basically unlimited gear from the ground to the chains (but bring a #3 C4 or equivalent). Would be a good place to push a little bit. In my book, if you did ok on the first pitch of Sixish, you'll be fine on Rhododendron.

Just wanted to shout out and thank everyone for beta to plan my first Gunks trip. Amazing and Incredibly fun climbing. My vote for best moderate trad crag on the planet. I did some of the moderate classics Horseman, and High E and a few less "famous" Rhodedendron, Sixish, Arch (overhung 4" crack exit on last pitch imo 5.7+), Betty (fun, easy, steep), Minty (awesome 4 star second 5.4 pitch). Only one downside was even mid week there were as many people as I've ever seen at at Red Rocks, J Tree, Toulumne, and Tahquitz on the weekend. I'm jealous that you New Paltz locals have so many awesome moderate trad routes. I guess 75 miles from 10 million people is why it's so busy. I was conservative and climbed well below my level (no hanging or falls), but had unbelievable time. Next visit, I'll do Madame G (3rd in line), Shockley's (i'll b naked) and Maria. Don't think I'll get on Modern Times though (sandbag 5.8 overhung exit crux! wtf. I'd give it at least 5.10). Maybe CCK and Linelight. I didn't use my tri cams as much as I thought, but used my alien offsets and dmm offsets on every pitch. Recommend a revolver or two for major traverses (1st pitch High E to ledge) instead of lugging half ropes on the plane. I absolutely love the Gunks and can't wait to come back. Also, best food and beer by far was the Mountain Brauhaus (Yaeger Schnitzel, Sauerbraten, and Köstritzer Schwarzbier and awesome climbing pics) flipping amazing. Lastly, Rock and Snow has the best selection of gear I've ever seen. Stay out of this place if you're a gear freak and you don't want to spend money.

Larry S wrote:Walk over to Madam G's and rap with two ropes. Might involve a little downscramble onto the top of the buttress. See the description for the area - mountainproject.com/v/f-the…

This rap was so fun. My gf yelled halfway down the hanging rap. This is so awesome.

William Nelson wrote:Don't think I'll get on Modern Times though (sandbag 5.8 overhung exit crux! wtf. I'd give it at least 5.10)

how do you know if you didn't get on it? haha It's 8+ all day if you can climb a roof. it's like a gym jug haul with great gear. you have until next time to get on steep overhangs and train up. it ain't no Jtree slab climb :)

I was belaying my second up to the ledge on high E and watched one guy
fire up that 5.8 "easy" overhang and the second fall at the crux into mid air. Cool fall for a top tope. . Awesome looking route but sure looks intimidating for a 5.8. I'll start doing my daily pull ups and work on my guns so I can clear the roof. I think I'll also need some more guts. Lol

ahh.. i'm mostly a sport climber who climbs steep stuff at Rumney all the time so 5.8 jughaul is right in my wheelhouse. It was one of those routes that the first time i saw it, i wanted to lead it. put me on slab and i'm useless.

Madamn G's rap is pretty awesome. it used to be even more scary before they put the bolted anchor in and you had to drop in below the big tree on slings.

Agree about Moonlight and Maria are good and offer good gear but they are a step up at 5.6. Money pitch of High E is gently overhanging 5.6 jug haul with impressive exposure getting to the overhanging part. Likely the most exciting 5.6 I have done and will ever do (the first pitch I ever led at the Gunks, in 1994).

The rap tree for Madame G was by no means big in 1996. Pretty freaky; I remember the wind was close to howling as my partner topped out, shivering from the wind and cold.

S. Neoh wrote:Agree about Moonlight and Maria are good and offer good gear but they are a step up at 5.6.

It is inevitable that people who ask for route recommendations on MP at a certain grade get recommendations for climbs that are grades harder. He asked for "easier" 5.5 leads. Good gear on Moonlight? Have you ever climbed it? The traverse is scary for both the leader and the second. I'm not the only one that thinks that. Read the comments. mountainproject.com/v/moonl… The common theme is "spicy" and "serious."

Brian, it was a thread drift in response to William Nelson's question asking for off-the-beaten-path routes. And "spicy" on Moonlight refers to the P1, IIRC, which can be done different ways to avoid the harships.

Exactly. Thank you, doligo.
And yes I have done it, albeit 17 years or so ago. Memory failing me? Quite possible.

Brian's right, the gear at the crux of pitch two of Moonlight is far from ideal. There is a really junky old piton up and right of the moves. It does not give comfort and it is far away. The only other option for protecting the crux is a weird little pocket. I got a tricam in there that I thought would probably hold. I don't think a nut or a cam would work.

I also agree with Brian that p2 was a bit thin on pro, at least on the traverse and directly after, but I allow for difference of opinion. FWIW, some of the MP comments about spice extend to p2 (although there are certainly comments that call p1 spicy too):

"i havent found a spicier 5.6 at the gunks. Not sure how the first pitch is only 5.5. getting started isn't that easy is it??? and the traverse on the second pitch is a boxer checker for sure. i snuck a purple c4 low to back up the pin but it still felt like it was a while before i got something else in. this is a sleeper classic climb. get on it and get scared."

"P2 can totally rival High-E. A totally different climb, but yet similar. The crux is at the point with the most exposure and same level of exposure like High-E. Just a beautiful, classic climb. Only your last piece is terribly far away at the crux. Spicy for sure ...
Even P1 is worth doing on its own - WAY better than P1 of High-E. Good pitch to put a new 5.5 leader on since it's easy to protect"

For me, Moonlight is mentally tough more than physically tough for the grade.