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> Paisano Pinnacle
West Ridge
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.1 from 108
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Routes in Paisano Pinnacle
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Rampage T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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West Ridge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Carla Firey, Jim McCarthy 1971 |
| Page Views: | 17,784 total · 136/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Nash on Jul 28, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted
Details
Washington Pass Climbing was closed on 8/15/23 due to the Blue Lake Fire until further notice. On 9/7/23 this closure was reduced in size. On 9/22 this was reduced again, opening all WA Climbing Routes. For remaining closures, see:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
P1: Follow an obviously white streaked S-shaped crack up past a tree. Belay on the ledge a little off of the left of the ridge. 125ft 5.8
P2: Ramble up the ridge crest on easy blocks until you reach a big belay ledge next to a large boulder and the 5.7 crack of the next pitch. 200ft Easy 5th
P3: Climb the crack up to a ledge with a tree. Move to the right on the ledge, climb the cracks up to the next ledge and belay with a #1 and chalks at the base of the twin cracks. 180ft 5.7
P4: Climb the twin cracks up from this ledge into a dihedral; both take small cams well. Once above the dihedral, you'll see some horns; from here, leave the ridge and traverse out to climbers left to a ledge out on the face with a tree. Belay at this tree. 125ft 5.8
P5: Climb the easiest line up from the tree to regain the ridge (one or two layback moves are the crux). Once on the ridge ramble up the easy 4th to a good ledge with a splitter crack; belay here. 85ft 5.8
P6: Climb the 5.6 splitter crack up a step off the ledge on the ridge crest. Above this step, traverse around the right side of a gendarme. Continue climbing to a belay at a ledge beneath twin cracks on the left. Rope drag can be bad on this pitch; consider breaking the pitch up if you are having problems. 110ft 5.6
P7: Climb the bomber twin cracks straight up to a ledge. Belay here. 110ft 5.7
P8: Climb up a large widening crack. At the top of the crack, climb left on face holds. You may be able to find a placement for a small cam here or there, but don't count on it. Continue up the ridge crest to the top. 150ft 5.8
Descent: From the summit of Paisano, downclimb easy terrain until you're below the NF of Burgundy. You will see rap slings on horns. Do not climb up the sub-peak north of the NF (there may be tat there, but don't use these). Make one 30m rap down down to a ledge, downclimb to the next anchors, then make one more 20m rap down to the ground.
P2: Ramble up the ridge crest on easy blocks until you reach a big belay ledge next to a large boulder and the 5.7 crack of the next pitch. 200ft Easy 5th
P3: Climb the crack up to a ledge with a tree. Move to the right on the ledge, climb the cracks up to the next ledge and belay with a #1 and chalks at the base of the twin cracks. 180ft 5.7
P4: Climb the twin cracks up from this ledge into a dihedral; both take small cams well. Once above the dihedral, you'll see some horns; from here, leave the ridge and traverse out to climbers left to a ledge out on the face with a tree. Belay at this tree. 125ft 5.8
P5: Climb the easiest line up from the tree to regain the ridge (one or two layback moves are the crux). Once on the ridge ramble up the easy 4th to a good ledge with a splitter crack; belay here. 85ft 5.8
P6: Climb the 5.6 splitter crack up a step off the ledge on the ridge crest. Above this step, traverse around the right side of a gendarme. Continue climbing to a belay at a ledge beneath twin cracks on the left. Rope drag can be bad on this pitch; consider breaking the pitch up if you are having problems. 110ft 5.6
P7: Climb the bomber twin cracks straight up to a ledge. Belay here. 110ft 5.7
P8: Climb up a large widening crack. At the top of the crack, climb left on face holds. You may be able to find a placement for a small cam here or there, but don't count on it. Continue up the ridge crest to the top. 150ft 5.8
Descent: From the summit of Paisano, downclimb easy terrain until you're below the NF of Burgundy. You will see rap slings on horns. Do not climb up the sub-peak north of the NF (there may be tat there, but don't use these). Make one 30m rap down down to a ledge, downclimb to the next anchors, then make one more 20m rap down to the ground.
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