REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Rap stations/descent from the summit of Pingora.  ...
Id# 108260873, 1125 x 1500px View full size
Comments on Photo Add Comment
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Aug 24, 2014
We climbed Pingora a handful of times on mostly different routes - we luckily had a long stretch of great weather. We saw people doing the descent in the photo but found the following modification worked very well ... very much reduces the rope snag factor plus reduces the number of raps whether rapping on one rope or two.

After the second "33 meter" rap in the photo, rather than "throw rope to the left (climber's right)", we made just one more ~50 meter rap (3rd rap) straight down over clean terrain to a very ample grassy ledge. Then we hiked the ample ledge horizontally to skier's left to the south shoulder of Pingora; the hike includes a little 2nd / 3rd class section to get to the point labeled "start ledge" in the photo.

This third rap can be easily broken into two raps with one 60 meter rope via a good (7/2014) intermediate anchor of fixed nuts and sling-age for a total of four raps; this intermediate anchor is much lower than the photo's "questionable rap station with one sling and one biner."

Doing the above four-rap descent became our usual way of getting down with a single 60 meter rope, eventually taking less than an hour for all four raps. Granted, there was some low fifth class down climbing to get all the way down to the 2nd rap station plus much easier / shorter down climbing to get all the way down to the 3rd rap station; a 70 meter rope would work very well for doing the above four-rap descent.
By zoso
Aug 24, 2014
Agreed. That's always the way I've descended as well. Pretty straight forward.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Aug 24, 2014
Thanks for the beta. I'll have to try that next time.

FYI, the questionable anchor with one sling and biner is no more as of July 2014.
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Aug 27, 2014
Speaking of descents, we also went down the west side of Pingora in order to traverse over Tiger Tower and Wolf's Head. This descent consists of roughly 75 feet of down climbing / down leading and then 4 or 5 raps. May need to replace slings on the rap anchors.

To start, locate the huge cleft that splits the west side of Pingora's summit. South of that cleft, find a way to down climb / down lead for roughly 75 feet to reach the first rap anchor which is inside a different and much smaller cleft. The first rap immediately goes around a corner to skier's right: funky w/ rope drag on the pull. The last rap ends on the north side of the notch between Pingora and Tiger Tower. A 70 meter rope probably keeps this to four raps; we had a 60 and rapped five times. A scramble up and over to the south side of the notch gets one into the sun and to good rock heading up Tiger Tower.
Photo 20 of 28
Avg Score   0.0 from 0 votes
Your Score   

Rap stations/descent from the summit of Pingora. 70m is best. Could shorten the the number of raps with 2 70m ropes, but the rope snag factor will increase significantly.

Photo taken from David Fantle as posted by MP user G. Neely here:

Submitted By: Charlie S on Jul 27, 2013
 Printer View

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About