Mountain Project Logo

Smith Rock 5.11s and Up

Original Post
Bryan Hall · · Portland, Oregon · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 100

Can anyone help me put together a good tick list for some harder Smith Rock routes?

I'm looking for routes that have a more physical or endurance focus. Right now I am loving Vomit Launch and Five Easy Pieces Start which both have physical/pump cruxes and I'd like to find more routes like them.

I am TERRIBLE on knob climbs or steep/hard crimping (lots of blown tendons in the past) so please help me stay clear of that stuff.

Jon Rhoderick · · Redmond, OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 966

umm
lotsa crimping and knobs here

Try these:
Bolt from the Blue: 35M enduro, no stopper moves
Up for Grabs 11d: decently sized holds for most of this one
American Nirvana 11c: another 35M enduro route
Dreamin': gets the 12a rating for the full package, might be a little too crimpy but give'r a go
Zebra Seam: technical enduro, climbing, plenty of footholds to keep the weight off your tendons.
Bloodshot: most varied 11 in Smith

Bryan Hall · · Portland, Oregon · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 100

Thanks, a few of those sound really good. Here's the list developed so far...

Blue Light Special
Woman in the Meadow
Entering Relativity
Toxic
Monkey Space
King of Pain
Pouches
Heresy
American Nirvana
Drilling Zona
Boys in the Hood
Blackened
Bolt from the Blue

All but one of those are 11's with a decent number of stars according to Mountain Project. Any stand out as crimpy/knobby routes to avoid? They all seem good by description and recommendation... Any more to add to the list?

Dobson · · Butte, MT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 215

Toxic and Heresy are both jug hauls. I love the movement on Toxic despite the fact that it's steeper than I normally prefer.

Sunshine and Rising Expectations are two of the best single pitch elevens I've ever been on. Really worthwhile if you like leading on gear.

David Mehr · · Bend, OR · Joined May 2011 · Points: 70

Hey Brian. The routes i've enjoyed so far at Smith in the 5.11-12 range that focus on power/endurance and don't involve a lot of crimping are:

Pure Palm
Heresy
Overboard
Overboard Extension (Gets thin at the top but the crux moves are on bigger holds)
Torrid Zone
Lama Sutra
Crack Babies
Chain Reaction
The Quickening

Get after it!

Bryan Hall · · Portland, Oregon · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 100
Dobson wrote:Toxic and Heresy are both jug hauls. I love the movement on Toxic despite the fact that it's steeper than I normally prefer. Sunshine and Rising Expectations are two of the best single pitch elevens I've ever been on. Really worthwhile if you like leading on gear.
Despite the fact that I'm listing off a lot of sport routes I do love trad. I just don't have partners climbing at that level for trad yet. I'll check out Sunshine and Rising Expectations.

David, thanks for the additions to the list!
Dobson · · Butte, MT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 215

Rising Expectations is easy to TR from Bohn Street if you choose not to lead.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
Post a Reply to "Smith Rock 5.11s and Up"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started