Can anyone help me put together a good tick list for some harder Smith Rock routes?
I'm looking for routes that have a more physical or endurance focus. Right now I am loving Vomit Launch and Five Easy Pieces Start which both have physical/pump cruxes and I'd like to find more routes like them.
I am TERRIBLE on knob climbs or steep/hard crimping (lots of blown tendons in the past) so please help me stay clear of that stuff.
Try these: Bolt from the Blue: 35M enduro, no stopper moves Up for Grabs 11d: decently sized holds for most of this one American Nirvana 11c: another 35M enduro route Dreamin': gets the 12a rating for the full package, might be a little too crimpy but give'r a go Zebra Seam: technical enduro, climbing, plenty of footholds to keep the weight off your tendons. Bloodshot: most varied 11 in Smith
Thanks, a few of those sound really good. Here's the list developed so far...
Blue Light Special Woman in the Meadow Entering Relativity Toxic Monkey Space King of Pain Pouches Heresy American Nirvana Drilling Zona Boys in the Hood Blackened Bolt from the Blue
All but one of those are 11's with a decent number of stars according to Mountain Project. Any stand out as crimpy/knobby routes to avoid? They all seem good by description and recommendation... Any more to add to the list?
Hey Brian. The routes i've enjoyed so far at Smith in the 5.11-12 range that focus on power/endurance and don't involve a lot of crimping are:
Pure Palm Heresy Overboard Overboard Extension (Gets thin at the top but the crux moves are on bigger holds) Torrid Zone Lama Sutra Crack Babies Chain Reaction The Quickening
Dobson wrote:Toxic and Heresy are both jug hauls. I love the movement on Toxic despite the fact that it's steeper than I normally prefer. Sunshine and Rising Expectations are two of the best single pitch elevens I've ever been on. Really worthwhile if you like leading on gear.
Despite the fact that I'm listing off a lot of sport routes I do love trad. I just don't have partners climbing at that level for trad yet. I'll check out Sunshine and Rising Expectations.
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