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Saber Ridge
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Saber Ridge traverse, south to north T 

Saber Ridge traverse, south to north 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 20 pitches, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Scott Thelen (2008)
Page Views: 7,548
Submitted By: fossana on Jul 16, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The Prism and Saber ridge from the approach.

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Being a ridge traverse there are many ways to go on some sections. Choose you own adventure. I found the most sustained part to be surmounting the first headwall.

In relation to something like Matthes, it's longer, more sustained and more exposed.

Location 

Start
Start as far down the lower angled slabs as you wish.

Descent
Scramble off to the west until you can drop down onto the talus field that puts you west of the Prism. There is also a trail descent down Elizabeth Pass, but it's longer. For this you'll have to head NE down the slabs and cross-country to the Elizabeth Pass trail.

Protection 

no fixed gear or anchors


Photos of Saber Ridge traverse, south to north Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: really fun section here
really fun section here
Rock Climbing Photo: looking back to the south
looking back to the south
Rock Climbing Photo: view of Mt Stewart and Tamarack Lake
view of Mt Stewart and Tamarack Lake
Rock Climbing Photo: knife-edged fun
knife-edged fun
Rock Climbing Photo: view to the east
view to the east
Rock Climbing Photo: view to the south with the Prism on the right
view to the south with the Prism on the right
Rock Climbing Photo: final push
final push
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the second bump/headwall.  Looks harder th...
BETA PHOTO: View of the second bump/headwall. Looks harder th...
Rock Climbing Photo: nearing the summit
nearing the summit
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down the route
looking down the route
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down the low-angled slab start
looking down the low-angled slab start
Rock Climbing Photo: Saber Ridge from Tamarack Lake
Saber Ridge from Tamarack Lake
Rock Climbing Photo: steep traversing the way I went for the first head...
steep traversing the way I went for the first head...
Rock Climbing Photo: route start and end
BETA PHOTO: route start and end
Rock Climbing Photo: Glacier Ridge and Deadman Canyon
Glacier Ridge and Deadman Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: view east past one of the gendarmes
view east past one of the gendarmes
Rock Climbing Photo: many options to surmount the first headwall
many options to surmount the first headwall
Rock Climbing Photo: Sitting on the ridge, soaking up the granite for d...
Sitting on the ridge, soaking up the granite for d...
Rock Climbing Photo: looking back at the Prism
looking back at the Prism
Rock Climbing Photo: the options for the second "bump"
the options for the second "bump"
Rock Climbing Photo: near the end of the ridge
near the end of the ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: Scramble up the slabs to the start of the ridge.
BETA PHOTO: Scramble up the slabs to the start of the ridge.
Rock Climbing Photo: one of the easier bits
one of the easier bits
Rock Climbing Photo: First light on our accidental bivy ledge- if you'r...
BETA PHOTO: First light on our accidental bivy ledge- if you'r...

Show All 25 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Saber Ridge traverse, south to north Add Comment
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By Chad Namolik
From: Three Rivers, CA
Jul 16, 2014

This is fun ridge traverse climbing. Agree w/ fossana about the headwall being sustained and it's probably the crux. Several options here and it felt like I chose the easiest; felt like 5.7+ face climbing on crusty flakes and cracks. After the headwall is gained, climbing through the slot is fun as there is a perfect hand crack. Then the ridge fun begins. Some class 3 and 4 mixed in with mid-5th and anything up to 5.10 if you wish. I stuck with the all the easiest options and 5.7 is a good grade for this climb. The exposure had me laughing it was so good! Wore climbing shoes for the headwall then switched to approach shoes for the ridge. The descent is not trivial. A great link-up would be to climb the Prizm, then traverse its ridge, rap and climb Saber. Saber is probably a better solo for those comfortable as carrying in gear and pitching up would be long and brutal, but still a great adventure for those looking for that.
By bricepollock
From: on the road
Sep 25, 2017
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

On September 7th, 2017 I climbed Saber Ridge not knowing much about it. My initial thoughts were that it would be several sustained pitches of 5.7+ to gain the ridge and then a 3-4th class cruise along the ridgeline. I was surprised to find after the headwall most of the ridge continues to gain about 700 ft of elevation and remains in the 5.5-5.7 with most sections runout with poor pro selection and high exposure. Too much for me to consider simul-climbing it as the gear is questionable and the rock quality not feeling bomber enough for no-fall climbing.

I don't want to overwhelm the page with my response so I go more into detail on the technical description here

...and discuss the overall adventure and bivy of the climb here


Some general information:
* Stay on the ridge as much as possible
* The route feels very unclimbed with grainy granite, hollow flakes and dirty cracks
* I spent a significant time trying to find reliable pro for three piece anchors best start looking 10m left in rope.

Pitches



P1: From top of dihedral traverse right into a small right facing corner. Continue up the runnel until you run out of rope.

P2: Go up diagonal crack until you can gain the ridge proper. Climb until you run out of rope. I belayed in the where a bunch of cracks appear but they were pretty flared so it was a marginal anchor.

P3: This is the 5.7+ technical crux pitch. You do a sort of S maneuver out right of the headwall. Then going up and diagonally left to get back on the ridge. The middle of this pitch is steep face climbing that can be runout. Our leader ran it out 50ft. Chicken heads are probably your best bet for pro. Belayed from a dark crack next to chicken heads and a couple of potholes.

From the many cracks belay our leader traversed ten feet right and then did a steep move to get back up to ridge proper using bushy crack. It probably is better to just get up the ridge from belay.

P4: Go up the ridge on face holds to the dark granite slot where the cracks begin again.

P5: Continue up the ridge

P6: Climb up the dark slot's flared, dirty cracks. Had to get out and right of slot to make an anchor.

P7: Continue up easy stuff to ridge

P8-9: Continue along the ridge. We switched to simul follow off one rope here since the exposure was high but the technicality moderate.

P10-12: One long simulclimb off a double rack until reaching a raised, leaning part of ridge.

(Don't go too far out on this raised section as it is spicy and only cliffs out)

P13: Left of the raised section rap down to the rock below to continue up ridge

P14: Gain the ridge again and do the first knife edge traverse by pulling on the ridge and smearing grainy granite with feet

P15: Continue up ridge, shuffling feet in a crack off to get past an exposed section.

P16-17: Continue on ridge. A couple more knife edge sections.

P18-19: You see the point in the ridge now. Go off the ridge into the 3rd class on the right.

Descent



In one long simul-climb, go around the high point and around the backside. Take the ridge East for some easy 5.4 technical downclimbing to the first gulley. There is a climber's trail down it, but you can see that it cliffs out in a few hundred feet of slab. Instead, continue over to the second gulley by keeping right of the ridge proper / 'hole' to get past the high point and then going left into the gulley via easy 5.4 downclimbing. From here descend the gulley. We took the drainages towards the bottom but you could possibly also take some of the low angle rock slab.

Timing


  • 45 min approach from Tamarack Lake
  • 1.15 hrs to solo lower slabs
  • 7 hrs to gain headwall (P8)
  • 2.5 hrs to get to first rise in ridge where we had to rappel (P13)
  • 6 hrs to high point (P19)
  • 1.15 hrs downclimb to reach gulley
  • 2.46 hrs down gulley to reach Tamarack Lake

Summary


  • Approach: 2 hrs
  • Climb: 15.5 hrs
  • Descent: 4 hrs
  • Cresent Meadow to Tamarack Lake: 15 miles, 5000 ft, 11 hrs
  • Tamarack Lake to Cresent Meadow: 7 hrs
  • Showers every day after 2pm often at 5pm at Tamarack Lake (they lasted 0.5-4 hrs)
By splitclimber
Oct 1, 2017

Thanks Brice for the post and links. Good to get more input about difficulty, exposure and time.

Is the pitch 13 20m rap mandatory or a variation that required the rap?

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