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Little Maniac/Dead End Crack
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 4 from 5
votes
Routes in Asgard Tor
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Asgard Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Asgard Flare TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c X |
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Green Wall TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Juggular, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Little Maniac/Dead End Crack T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Lost Indexican S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Eric Breitenberger (TR) Dan Jaffe (Lead) |
| Page Views: | 2,791 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | A Stolpe on Sep 10, 2012 |
| Admins: | L. Von Dommelheimer |
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Description
This is THE crack of the Tors. The crack varies from hands to fingers before tapering out to 5.9 run-out at the top. A fixed pin at the top of the crack was pulled out with a gentle tug this summer. A couple bolts a the top of this climb would make the lead considerably safer.
To top rope the climb, go around to the south side of the rock and follow a ramp to a grassy ledge. From the grass head towards the wide gap (chimney) that leads to the top. The moves are a bit committing here and I have to agree with the guide book that a belay makes the outing more pleasant. Being tall helps, too.
To top rope the climb, go around to the south side of the rock and follow a ramp to a grassy ledge. From the grass head towards the wide gap (chimney) that leads to the top. The moves are a bit committing here and I have to agree with the guide book that a belay makes the outing more pleasant. Being tall helps, too.
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