Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: James Gose
Page Views: 2,517 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jeffrey Arthur on Mar 21, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Kristin Tippey, Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A really nice route on very good sandstone. A low slopy crux at the bottom leads to steeper climbing on jugs. The original grade of 11a from both editions of Watford's guide IMHO seems to be way too liberal. I feel a grade of 10b is much more appropriate since the move involves great feet and a long move to a jug off of a pretty good sloper. Maybe if you're shorter this may feel harder, but long moves is the general nature of Southern sandstone.

Whatever you feel the grade is this route is very good and should not be missed while visiting Lilly Bluff.

Location Suggest change

Toward the right end of Lilly Bluff. Start up a ledge where good holds lead to a good sloper slot 15 feet off the ledge. The third line right of Ticks Are For Kids and just left of a bolted crack.

Protection Suggest change

7 bolts with closed anchor bolts.

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