Guiding companies in the SE?

I'm looking into hiring a guide to teach a friend and I trad climbing (probably 2 days of instruction). We are still newer climbers (a little over 2 years) and we hope to slowly work into the trad side of things. I would say we lead at the 5.9/5.10a level outdoors, nothing too remarkable, but getting better each time. I personally want to learn because I would like to pursue multi-pitch climbing in the next few years. Before I try and find a trad mentor, I would like to be taught by someone with a lot of experience and knowledge (hence, hiring a guide).

We are both located near Nashville TN and it would be nice if we could keep it a bit more local (T-Wall, Sunset Park?), but driving to the Red or NC would be a fun trip as well.

So, does anyone have any guide recommendations for us? I've already done some Google searches to locate guiding companies, but if anyone can personally vouch for guides or guiding companies, that would be a big help.

So far, these companies are on my list with the first two being the top choices at the moment:

Granite Arches
Peregrine Climbing Guides
Kentucky Rock & Adventure Guide
Appalachian Mountain Guides
Fox Mountain Guides and Climbing Services
Torrent Falls Climbing Adventure
Red Rivers Outdoors
Appalachian Mountain Institute
Karsten Delap (not sure he has the time or interest in a beginner trad class)

Thanks for any input!

Andy,

I have a friend that moved south for the summer for some work. His name is Will Gordon, you can contact him here: mountainproject.com/u/will-…

I highly recommend working with Will, he is dialed and will be be able to get you plugging and chugging, safely, in no time.

Rock Dimensions is located in downtown Boone if you want to climb in that area. They offer an array of climbing trips and are very flexible as to the location. Great multi-pitch guiding in the Linville Gorge if your looking for some long moderates and awesome exposure. It may be worth it to just give them a call and discuss the possibilities. They offer some classes through PCIA if your looking to hone your gear placing and anchor building skills (you learn a lot more than just that too)
rockdimensions.com

Take a look at Stuart Cowles at climbmax gym in Asheville NC. He is a great guide for beginner trad, self rescue, multi pitch, ect. It would be a bit of a drive for you but for multipitch NC if the best around. He usually takes clients to LookingGlass. Fox is also a good guide group don't have any personal experience with them but have ran into many of the guides around NC and they were all supper friendly and knew their stuff. Stuart would be more one on one instruction. Have seen some the the guide groups around Chattanooga not really impressed with any of them seem to be more of a set up toprope and climb then teaching.

I'll put it in a quick pitch for PuraVida Adventures in Brevard, NC. Joe's a great guy and i enjoyed working as a guide for him. AMG and Fox are also both great outfits...

Fox is probably one of the best outfits in the East. Karsten is a great guide with a whole lot of climbing under his belt- he was working for fox last time i crossed paths with him.

For my money, I'd go with Fox. They're a very professional outfit. I once shared a belay with Ron while he climbed through on a popular route. I learned more in that 15 minutes than I have in any 15 minutes of climbing that didn't involve trauma.

Andy M wrote:Before I try and find a trad mentor, I would like to be taught by someone with a lot of experience and knowledge.

...er, but.....but.....???

You didn't ask, but.....Here's a plug for jumping right in. Find someone who is knowledgeable and with whom you get along. In the days of old, no one hired a guide for training.

Andy, check us out...

Rocky Top Guides

rockytopguides.com

My "humble-brag" personal resume includes:

-Guided many of the Grade III-IV Sierra Classics including Mt. Whitney, Mt. Russell, Temple Crag, etc.

-13 ascents of El Capitan, including 1 day ascents of Triple Direct and Zodiac. Also, have done every other major formation in Yosemite except Mt. Watkins.

-Redpoints of 5.13 trad and sport routes

-AMGA SPI, 25 years of climbing. I have ISSA strength and fitness training certifications, we'll try to incorporate that into climbing lessons. We'll also hook you up with our Rock Climbing 101 and Big Wall Climbing 101 'old school" CD-ROMS.

+1 for Rocky Top Guides.

James is a great guy to climb with and learn from. My wife and I have used him twice and can't say enough good things about him and his services.

I'll second rock dimensions for ring great people.

Since you have Appalachian Mountain Guides on there, it looks like you aren't opposed to come to the New. I've taken a few classes with Jim at App Mtn Guides and recommend him. He is an excellent instructor.

Also, at the NRG, check out New River Mountain Guides (Elaina Arenz's outfit).

Br'er Rabbit wrote: ....??? You didn't ask, but.....Here's a plug for jumping right in. Find someone who is knowledgeable and with whom you get along. In the days of old, no one hired a guide for training.

I guess what I was getting at was, I thought it would be easier to find a so-called trad mentor if I already had the basics down and they didn't have to teach me everything, right from the start. The hope is, hiring a guide will give me a firm handle on all the fundamentals and I could just work on placements and choosing the right size (and type) of gear with a trad mentor to critique me.

I would love to jump right in and spend the guide money on building a rack... Maybe it would be cheaper/better if I should just offer beer and gas money to a local climber.

Andy M wrote: I guess what I was getting at was, I thought it would be easier to find a so-called trad mentor if I already had the basics down and they didn't have to teach me everything, right from the start. The hope is, hiring a guide will give me a firm handle on all the fundamentals and I could just work on placements and choosing the right size (and type) of gear with a trad mentor to critique me. I would love to jump right in and spend the guide money on building a rack... Maybe it would be cheaper/better if I should just offer beer and gas money to a local climber.

It probably would be but I understand the essence of what your getting at. Sometimes folks are reluctant to take novices out, but beer and gas money are time tested for breaking down those barriers.

If you've been climbing for two years, presumably some TR and sport, you should have many of the belay and anchor fundamentals down.

As an alternative to guiding, take your established skills, a copy of one of the popular technical books (Freedom of the Hills, Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Technique, John Long's anchoring series), a smattering of gear (maybe a set of stoppers, a small cam, a medium cam, and some long slings) and practice 'ground school' along the base of your local crag. Place and weight gear. Hang on it, but never very high off the ground. Bounce test it. See what works, what doesn't. Practice clipping your rope one handed. Practice classic, simple three point anchors with gear and a cordalette.

In the meantime, try and find someone to tag along with to follow and clean their routes and visa versa....for the placement evaluation aspect.

Also, TR cracks....a lot of cracks.

Eventually, when you feel good about it, lead something that protects well, has bolted anchors, and is well below your limit. Repeat until you work up to your comfort zone....then beyond.

If, at any point, you decide to deviate, there's nothing that says you can't call a guide at that time.....but you might get farther than you expect figuring it out yourself or with a mentor.

All that said, there's some good guide services here in the SE. You can't go wrong with many of them. James certainly appears to have his program dialed. Karsten instructed a friend and she's solid on multipitch technique. I've encountered Granite Arches and have found them to be respectful of non-guided climbers and less 'clustery' than some of the others....which is good.

I'd be interested to know how many folks starting out hired a guide to teach them the fundamentals. I know one guy and one girl out of 30 or so partners over the years that started with 'proper' instruction. With the proliferation of gyms and guide services, I bet there will be a shift towards this sort of thing.

+1 for Karsten Delap at Fox Mountain Guides.

Another +1 for Fox...I've worked with Karsten and Ron and they're both great guys, personable and really knowledgeable as well.

Br'er Rabbit wrote: ....??? You didn't ask, but.....Here's a plug for jumping right in. Find someone who is knowledgeable and with whom you get along. In the days of old, no one hired a guide for training.

Agreed! Clean behind a mentor for a year or two for free. With a guide you learn everything that he can squeeze in a day climb for a $100.00 an hour.

Thanks for the feedback everyone.

I think I actually ran into Karsten a few weeks ago at the Red. He was working with some younger folks, but he was a beast of a climber, just running up the wall with approach shoes on.

I was able to find someone locally that is willing to let me tag along with them. I'll read some anchor books and try some on the ground placements while I work with that person. This should free up some cash to start assembling a rack.

James Arnold and Rocky Top Guides, look no further.

Andy M wrote:We are both located near Nashville TN and it would be nice if we could keep it a bit more local (T-Wall, Sunset Park?), but driving to the Red or NC would be a fun trip as well. So, does anyone have any guide recommendations for us?

It seems like Rocky top guides is the only company to fit into your crag plans. I'm sure all the other companies are great. But, you know, location location location! Plus, james is a great guide, climber, and possible future "mentor."

I have lots of experience climbing with Jim from Rocky Top Guides. I will brag about his overall skill set to teach climbing. His clients walk away with knowledge and satisfaction. He was a mentor of mine when I first started climbing in the area. More importantly, he still is a mentor of mine.

American Dankster wrote:I have lots of experience climbing with Jim from Rocky Top Guides. I will brag about his overall skill set to teach climbing. His clients walk away with knowledge and satisfaction. He was a mentor of mine when I first started climbing in the area. More importantly, he still is a mentor of mine.

The Dankster and I both found ourselves under Jim's tutelage in Fall of 2010. Since then, we've both pursued different aspects of Jim's legacy, Dankster following in his super hard single pitch cragging footsteps, and myself his Ice/Alpine past. Were it not for Jim, I doubt either of us would be where we are right now in our chosen disciplines. Jim's holistic approach to teaching the sport is something that I've seldom seen in the years since.