Told you can't climb because of a photo shoot? How do you respond?

Greg Berry wrote: Hopefully the video they were shooting will have the phone number for rock and resole edited in. That would be a public service and forgivable.

I can't believe no one gave some kudos for this. Cracking me up, nicely played.

Jeff Kent wrote: Hey Joe Mills! You certainly know of what you speak. My question: why does someone so talented have to hog a trade route?

Oh I agree its lame, its just part of climbing though. I wish people would stop aid-climbing Moonlight, maybe I should start a thread...

Woodchuck ATC wrote:I"ve got a fk'd up old computer, a terrible internet connection that won't even play videos, and the first thing somebody can come up with is a porn accusation here? That's just plain shit, offensive and more. Check out your own lifestyle instead of placing accusations against me.

Dude, all guys watch porn. Denying it is SOOOO 1997.

Woodchuck ATC wrote:I"ve got a fk'd up old computer, a terrible internet connection that won't even play videos, and the first thing somebody can come up with is a porn accusation here? That's just plain shit, offensive and more. Check out your own lifestyle instead of placing accusations against me.

And had you just dropped the issue we wouldn't know you as the porn-chuck bandit.

How much wood would a wood chuck chuck if a wood chuck could chuck porn?

Woodchuck ATC wrote:I"ve got a fk'd up old computer, a terrible internet connection that won't even play videos, and the first thing somebody can come up with is a porn accusation here? That's just plain shit, offensive and more. Check out your own lifestyle instead of placing accusations against me.

Oh I'm sorry, I thought most dudes liked surfing porn once in a while. Are you a dude or a chick? Mormon?

btw, a slow connection and old PC has nothing to do with a virus "asswipe"(from your own PM)

I think I'd tongue punch her fart box then call it a day.

Id say im a tax payer and part of that money goes to these parks. Therefore I am entitled to the same use as every other person.

Greg D wrote:I only read the op. My immediate response: "That's nice. Now outta my way". Climb that route no matter what. Beside, that punk already effed up one desert tower.

What are you even talking about?

Hmann2 wrote:Id say im a tax payer and part of that money goes to these parks. Therefore I am entitled to the same use as every other person.

Uhhh, plenty of guides and outfitters get exclusive use of public land campgrounds by paying extra money to the land management agency. It would not surprise me if film crews could get similar arrangements.

camhead wrote: Uhhh, plenty of guides and outfitters get exclusive use of public land campgrounds by paying extra money to the land management agency. It would not surprise me if film crews could get similar arrangements.

Where is this? I know my permits all specifically state that possession of said permit does not entitle me to exclusive use.

"Yes, he's picking up the shit now. It's in his mouth. OMG! I can't believe he did it."

jmeizis wrote: Where is this? I know my permits all specifically state that possession of said permit does not entitle me to exclusive use.

This is probably because your employer just has the regular commercial use permit. I know that, at least on National Forest land (not sure about BLM or National Park), it is possible for outfitters to reserve specific locations to use as base camps for a significantly larger fee. The outfitter I've worked for in South-Central Utah does not pay this fee, but I have seen the paperwork and options for it.

I don't have any NF permits but I'm looking over the BLM application that I just got and it does say you can apply to use base and spike camps but doesn't say anything about exclusive use. I haven't gone through all the paperwork though so I guess I'll find out. Will be interested to see if I can get exclusive use or the same 'first come first served' reservations as anyone else. If I can that's kind of shitty even if it would be nice from a guiding perspective. I don't do any camping based services so I've never bothered to look into it.

J Q wrote: And had you just dropped the issue we wouldn't know you as the porn-chuck bandit. How much wood would a wood chuck chuck if a wood chuck could chuck porn?

OK, OK,,but I'm in a 12 step program to cut down on the hours spent surfing for it...!!!!!

My initial thought was that it's somewhat bullshit. I would definitely be frustrated, especially that no warning was given, because I definitely do not always check MP forums before a climb, usually just NOAA for weather and any park sites for closure information. Anyway after reading the more thoughtful posts (and laughing at the less so) I've come to a different perspective.

Given the number of people involved in the shoot; climbers, photographers, chopper crews, miscellaneous crew, think of it like this: these dozen or two people got there first (which they actually did) and are all involved in this route. While they may not be climbing it, if it were 6+ pairs in line to climb it, you may likely decide to climb else where. Is this situation that different?

The only meaningful difference, aside from the vast majority of the crew not actively climbing the route, is that this is a for profit venture. We may not all appreciate 'mainstream' climbing media, but many do. This is how they make their money because people pay them. There is therefore some utility to what they do and hundreds, even thousands of people feel they benefit from that enough to pay for it.

I would definitely ask that something be posted at the trailhead, especially on more remote routes. I'm unfamiliar with this one so I don't know how much of a trek it was to get on another. I would not ask for money, but I may say, "Well can you send me a copy of the film when it's done? I'd like to see what I missed since I planned to climb this, took time off from work and spent a chunk of money to be here."

Other than a suggestion and small guilt trip I'd be on my way to keep my day of climbing intact and allow others to do the same.

This is an interesting conundrum. I've been the guy being filmed, I've been the guy at the base asking people not to climb because there was a fim being shot and I've placed signs at trailheads asking people to not climb on a given route because there was a filming project.

We all hate being told--or asked--to not climb in a specific area but, at the same time, we all love to watch climbing movies. So I think a little give and take is called for.

At a bare minimum, the film crew needs to make it very clear that filming is going on BEFORE climbers embark on a big approach. That incudes posting on MP and the other forums. If I'd been training all winter for an ascent of Ancient Arts and drove all the way from Boulder to CV, hiked in to the base and then found that is was closed, I'd be pissed. It's not like there are other routes around to climb.

And climbers should do their best to respect the film project. At best, climbing around a film crew is dangerous. You never know who is up there (Hollywood film producers, make-up artists, lighting assistants or, recently, robo-copters) and there is a real likelyhood that something is going to get dropped. Or pitch in and help carry some of their shit of to the climb. You never know how you'll get rewarded. A few years ago we were filming on Castleton and really really needed the the Kor Ingalls route all to ourselves. As the base camp manager, my job was to talk to climbers wanting to climb the Kor Ingals and ask them to climb another route. Surprisingly, everyone, including the three French-Canadian hotties, cheerfully agreed and offered to help carry out with the approach (We were filming a paraplegic and an amputee climbing the tower.). The climbers who were not part of the movie all climbed the route around the corner and they all joined together for a summit party. A good time was had by all and we fed everyone a campfire meal of shrimp and andouille gumbo that night. And--the best part--three of our guys got to sleep really "comfortably" that night!

If things really get bad, remember that the rock will be there tomorrow. Think of how this might play out if you were a surfer. Check it out: surfermag.com/videos/teahup…

willeslinger wrote:Let's say you're on vacation for three days, you want to do three towers on those days. Then let's say you hike up the Castleton talus cone to do fine jade, but two chicks with radios tell you you can't because some prominent free soloist is getting filmed by a helicopter? How to you respond?

Looky what I found.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5S-t6HWA4AQ&feature=youtu.be

A good film maker has been to the crag, checked out the time of day and the lighting, rehearsed any 'lines' or action needed and then can do the shoot in a couple takes or scenes within an hour or so. That is acceptable behavior. Taking a cliffline or group of routes for half or all of a day is not acceptable in public climbing places. Go pay for a full day at Torrent Falls or something if you want privacy and filming rights for the day.

You'd def have to close down a wall to setup this incredible rig:

Hannold Shoot...

This shot was taken behind the scenes filming for the Oprah Winfrey channel at Castleton.

Yeah, that's kinda cool. No, fuck it, that's awesome. In hindsight seeing that go down in person was a cool enough memory to erase the annoyance.

Watching someone solo something that far below their level does very little for me no matter how hard the route would be for me.

I am glad to know that you can get some dick if you help Malcolm's friends carry gear!