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Arm cramps whilst jugging?

Original Post
jasoncm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30

I have been putting up a few new sports routes lately but have been experiencing forearm cramps after jugging approximately 250ft.

I use 10mm static running through a PetZl LH ascender down to a grigri2 and then back up to a Rock exotica pulley hanging off bottom of ascender. I have a foot loop off the ascender and daisy.

Any advice?

Jace Mullen · · Oceanside, Ca · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 10

Is it low angle (<90 degrees)? If so, the yosemite system really doesn't require using your arms except to push up the jug.

jasoncm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30

Sorry, should of stated that its vertical to free hanging. I need the grigri system to freely go up and down.

kilonot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0

Both forearms? Left is on jug, right is working the pulley?

jasoncm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30

Yep usually only LH cramps as its on the ascender.

Allen Corneau · · Houston, TX · Joined May 2008 · Points: 80

A few ideas...

Get yourself another foot strap so you can use both feet, not just one. Also, trade off which hand is on the ascender and which is on the Grigri line.

Thirdly, make sure you're not trying to hold up your body weight with the ascender arm while you're pulling up slack through the Grigri. Let your body weight sit on the top ascender. (You ARE connected to the top ascender, aren't you?)

jasoncm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30

Thanks Allen, your third point is where I'm going wrong. My daisy must be set too long as I'm definitely holding myself as I pull through slack.

Cheers

jasoncm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30

Just thinking about it I'm getting more confused. I am only using one ascender, how am I going to sit on that and pull in slack. I have to stand up on that ascender for there to be any slack.

Ed Rhine · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 0

Ditch the rock exotica and get a second ascender and your life will be way easier

Bud Martin · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 380

Aider/foot loop on bottom ascender. Both feet in for steep stuff.

Ascending

Mark K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 30

Put your foot loop on the grigri, not the ascender. I found this useful. Easily applied to your setup.

http://youtu.be/bwv9QsE8EC0

Nicholas Patterson · · Sheridan, WY · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 55

do more jugging!

jasoncm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30
Mark K wrote:Put your foot loop on the grigri, not the ascender.
Now that blows my mind, please explain.
Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

I use the exact same system for bolting routes. You know that a second ascender is not an option since you need to be able to go up AND DOWN quickly, so ditch that advice. And I'm not sure what Mark K is talking about - you can't attach the foot loop to the GriGri - it's attached to your belay loop. That wouldn't make sense.

Try jugging without the pulley, so the rope is just hanging from the GriGri directly to the ground and you pull up on the rope like when belaying a TR climber. Sometimes I find this way more comfortable, but I use both systems depending on the terrain. The only disadvantage of going w/o the pulley is that the rope gets heavy and harder to pull through the GriGri because it is hanging below you.

Either way, you should be pulling yourself inline w/ the rope with your left hand, and putting all your weight on your foot. Don't pull UP w/ your left hand, just use it to get your balance so you can stand in the foot loop. Make sure you are pulling the rope through the GriGri at the same time you are standing up, and not after. It sounds to me like you just haven't found your balance or rhythm. Keep practicing.

jasoncm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30

Thanks Ryan, finally someone that understands what I'm talking about! I'll keep working on my technique.

I would love to see someone stand on a foot loop that is attached to a grigri that is attached to their belay loop, hahaha!

Cheers

Jason

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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