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The Wicked Crag Rock Climbing
Routes in The Wicked Crag
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Alt-Right, The S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Bleeding, The S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Bow Tie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bowsprit S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Buzzcut, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Crush the Skull S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Doubloon S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Ferns Have Feelings Too S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flaming Groovy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Inferno S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jolly Roger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mossacre S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mossacre Direct S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Scavenger S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sinister, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Techno Christ S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tiki Man S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Wave of Mutilation S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| GPS: |
38.49691, -109.31021 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 68,166 total · 280/month |
| Shared By: | richard magill on Apr 20, 2004 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This crag is one of the most developed and aesthetic crags in all of Mill Creek Canyon - a beautiful, overhanging streaked wall that holds a variety of difficult routes.
The crag itself splits into three main features:(1) A steep wall that looks like a tidal wave and overhangs 20 feet or more in its steepest section.(2) A recessed portion that is pretty much vertical. (3) A giant overhanging fin that has some ultra hard looking routes on it (and some reasonable ones, too).
There are a bunch or lines here (at least a dozen), ranging from 5.11 to 5.13 and beyond.The lines vary from overhanging powerfests to thin technical face climbs. Super fun and worthy of a trip!
The bolting is decent at this crag - good for a 5.12 leader. This is not really a place where you want to count on cozy pro - there can be some sparse bolts here.
The Wicked Crag is sort of Northwest facing. It gets sun in the late afternoon, but is in the shade most of the day.
There are a dozen routes or more just across the creek that get early sun. These are easy to spot and are accessed via a nice log bridge with a handline.
I've done many of these and they are also excellent quality, although you should be prepared for some sparse bolting at times.
The crag itself splits into three main features:(1) A steep wall that looks like a tidal wave and overhangs 20 feet or more in its steepest section.(2) A recessed portion that is pretty much vertical. (3) A giant overhanging fin that has some ultra hard looking routes on it (and some reasonable ones, too).
There are a bunch or lines here (at least a dozen), ranging from 5.11 to 5.13 and beyond.The lines vary from overhanging powerfests to thin technical face climbs. Super fun and worthy of a trip!
The bolting is decent at this crag - good for a 5.12 leader. This is not really a place where you want to count on cozy pro - there can be some sparse bolts here.
The Wicked Crag is sort of Northwest facing. It gets sun in the late afternoon, but is in the shade most of the day.
There are a dozen routes or more just across the creek that get early sun. These are easy to spot and are accessed via a nice log bridge with a handline.
I've done many of these and they are also excellent quality, although you should be prepared for some sparse bolting at times.
Getting There
Moab Desert Adventures provides a nice map - get it off their web site.You can park right at the trailhead if you can get off to the side of the road. Or down closer to the bridge if their is no room.Look for a trail (currently marked with a cairn) a couple hundred yards up the LaSal loop road from the Mill Creek bridge.
Follow the trail - going straight down leads to a poor trail into the canyon bottom.Veering off down canyon leads to a nice chain ladder directly to the crag.
Follow the trail - going straight down leads to a poor trail into the canyon bottom.Veering off down canyon leads to a nice chain ladder directly to the crag.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Wicked Crag
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
![Working through the first crux [on Tiki Man].](https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/2200704_smallMed_1557852047.jpg?cache=1597612108)
All Photos Within The Wicked Crag
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